QuestionQUESTION: Restoring a '69 Camero coupe.
What is the best way to support the body when replacing the rocker and quarter panels?
How can I get to the bottom lip on the quarter panel to weld it to the top side of the rocker panels?
The car is gutted, the doors are off, and I plan to remove the front sub-frame.
Any tips or tricks for replacing these panels would be appreciated.
Also, what is the best way to clean the metal after bead blasting? I am thinking of using POR-15.
ANSWER: Support the car on it's suspension mounting points, as close to ride height as possible. This prevents tweaking of the body. I prefer they be supported with jack stands under the rear axle, and then remove the front wheels and support it under the lower control arms. Replace the rockers and floor sections, if any, first- one at a time. You need to have the door installed so that you can properly align the rocker. Leave the quarter intact- don't chop out the quarters and rockers together. This will inevitably lead to tweaking. Do this one bite at a time. Once you have one rocker completely done, go to the other side. Then, replace any floor sections and supports. Once the rockers are in, you can tackle the quarters with relative safety- I still recommend doing 1 at a time. You need to have the doors and trunk lid installed to properly align the quarters before welding- never take anything for granted, or assume it will fit. the bottom front edge of the quarter is tricky- I remember having trouble with one years ago. If there is no access from the inside, you have 2 choices- either cut an access hole in the bottom of the inner panel, and weld it back in when you are done, or use structural bonding adhesive. As far as doing the first prime, I would go to the company that you intend to use for the topcoat, and carefully follow their recommendations for bare metal prep with their system. Every manufacturer of paint has a different system- stay with 1 manufacturer start to finish. That will guarantee a long lasting job. I would only use POR-15 on the undercarriage. Bill
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QUESTION: I plan to remove the front sub-frame because the bushings are shot. Remove the rear end and leaf springs because the springs are also shot. The front coil springs are shot as well. This is the first time this 40 year old car has been restored. The body is fairly solid, but it does not set level. It has the typical Camero rust issues. I am afraid that setting it up on its suspension and cutting panels out, will allow things to shift, because the suspension and bushings are all shot. I was going to re-do the entire suspension and install the sub-frame and rear axle after I got the body restored.
With this additional information, does your advise change. I like your advise, it gave me some good ideas, but can you help me further. This is my first restoration. I am trying to avoid any problems.
This was good advice and I would like to rate it but I did not see a link that I could follow to do it.
Thanks Again, Mike
Answerremoving the front sub frame and rear axle & components removes weight from the car- weight that can cause tweaking of the body. I would still support the rear body section as level as possible on a set of jack stands, somewhere on the underbody- preferably on the unibody rais, if they are still intact. If your unibody rails need replaced- you are in for 1 BIG job. You might want to see if there is a complete, pre-assembled floor pan/unibody rails. I don't know myself, you used to be able to get them for Volkswagen beetles.You will still need to have the doors on to align the quarters and rockers, as well as the trunk lid. I don't have a link to rate my answers, but thank you for the compliment! I find that some folks want to hear a specific answer, and when they don't get it, they abuse me on the ratings. I don't need the stress, or the aggervation, so I stopped allowing ratings. Most are good, but that 1 oddball out there with a chip on his shoulder tends to put a damper on my evening after a hard day in the shop. Glad to help. Bill
