Auto body repair & detailing: rust repair on 1950 Chev Sedan door, rust repair, alignment problems

Question
Hi William,  

Bodywork is my hobby.  I found you on a "net" search.  I've used AllExperts before regarding mechanic problems, and wanted to ask you some body repair questions.

I have a 1950 Chevy and need to repair the doors.  I'm using a doner door since the original is "toast".  

The doner door has some rustouts on the lower outer skin.  On removing a few inches of the lower outer skin, I discovered that lower part of the inside pan has tiny pinhole rustouts.  Despite these lower pinholes the inside pan appears structurally strong.

My plan is to order a repair panel from EMS.  The repair parts consist of a lower inner panel, and the lower part of the outer door skin.

I have experience welding (welded a new quarter panel on the car), have a mig welder, and shouldn't have any problem repairing the outer skin.

My question is concerning repairing the lower inner panel.  I would rather leave this inner panel intact, than cut it of and have to worry about alignment problems with the repair panel.

Questions-

If I repaired this inner panel by leading the pinholes, would this be an effective repair?  (I haven't done leading, but have read about the process and would practice first of course).

Would using POR products work okay on these pinholes, and hold up to water down the inside of the door?

I had planned on butt welding the outer door panel, but noticed in one of your answers, that you recommended flanging a panel and then welding.  Would this be a better method for welding the outer repair panel?  (I worry about rust forming under a flange).  

Thank you for answering these questions.  I'm open to any suggestions you have concerning this repair.

Regards,  John

John  

Answer
Lead won't work well on what you want to use it for. You need to strengthen the inner panel before yo can roll over the flange on the door  bottom. As far as putting in the lower inner panel, put the door back on the car, and tack weld it onto place. That is how you be sure of fit. Flanging is the absolute best way to  attach the outter skin, it gives the skin a bit more strength and will reduce warpage. Butt welding makes a horrible mess, one that is more likely to rust than a flange joint. It's just an inherently faster, stronger, less warped to s--t joint. The flange faces down, and the joint will be above the bottom far enough that water intrusion won't be a factor. Use a coat of waterproof filler on the seams, this will give the repair more life. POr 15 will do nicely inside the door. Bill