QuestionHi,
I have a 1993 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2WD. Steering column has a tilt wheel, no separate key-lock, cruise control. I have found, in the past, that the front brakes are from a 4WD model (important for the questions coming your way) and don't accept a 2WD brake pad.
I am having a problem finding an ignition switch to fit in my Jeep. The "normal" replacement doesn't work. I am guessing that, at some point, the steering column was changed and I need a different ignition switch.
Here's the issue with the ignition specifically:
A few days back, my key would turn back just enough to kill the motor, but not go to the lock or accessory position. It wouldn't engage the steering wheel lock either. Trying to start the jeep would not work, either. I have a hot wire ran to a button because of past intermittent ignition problems, so I was able to start the jeep... if that hadn't been there, there'd been no starting it.
I tore everything down and removed the switch. Not realizing it was the switch, to remove it, I pried the metal casing clip off so I could remove the plugs easier. Since it fell apart, I can't completely be sure which way it went together. I took it to AutoZone and they gave me a replacement that "actioned" the wrong direction. I went back and got a second one that traveled properly, but, in relation to the mounting spots, the actuator rod is too long.
So here is what I know about my key cylinder and how the rod works... When the key (on the column) is turned clockwise, it should start the car. The actuator rod, though, is drawn back up the column to do this. The first switch I bought had the start position as if the rod moved down the column. On the second switch, the "start" (spring side) of the switch is toward the top of the column, so the actuator rod slides in the correct direction. The instructions say to place the key in the accessory position as well as the switch. Hook the rod into it and mount it down. Except when I go to mount it down, I need to pull it up the column a half inch or so, which moves the key to an almost "on" position, though the switch is still in accessory. If I were to mount it, there would not be any travel left in the rod to move the key into accessory position, nor is there enough stroke in the rod to pull the switch into a start position.
So...
1. How or where do I find an identifier for the steering column? Would this help me find the right switch?
2. Is it possible to use a different model's steering column in a 1993 Cherokee?
3. Just a general, overall "what do you think" about what I've got going?
Right now, I'm going to measure the distances between the mounts and the rod in an accessory setting and go back to the parts store and go through ignition switches for years past and present as well as other models.
AnswerHi Brad,
Geez, a tough one.
Your column's interchange is 91-93 Cherokee and 91-92 Comanche ONLY. as long as the donor is a floor-shift w/tilt and either a manual or automatic transmission depending on what YOU have in your vehicle.
I hate to say that at this point I'd be searching for a whole, complete column to rid myself of that headache. But being the tech that I am, my first inclination would be to do just what you did, tear it all apart and fix it. Although you may want to consider the first suggestion.
My best advice would be to take the old, broken switch into the auto parts store and match IT up with a new one regardless of what manufacturer. You own a Jeep but probably have Delco or MOPAR parts on it.
Ans-1: There is no way to ID the column to insure it hasn't been changed-over other than following the interchange listed above.
Ans-2: Possible, yes but improbable unless it is from a vehicle listed in the interchange above.
Ans-3: I don't think my opinion here will matter much. If you haven't found the cause for the original problem, there is no sense trying to fix ANOTHER part on the column before determining if it is still worth the repair based on what turns out to be the original issue's repair.
I know this isn't what you wanted to hear but I'm not going to sugar-coat it for you. I could probably get you an entire column, shipped to your door for around $125.00. Give it some thought.
Looking for a reputable service technician? My advice on finding a good technician is: Steer clear of the dealership and 'chain' stores like Firestone, Sears, Pep Boys, Monro Muffler/Brake, Midas, etc. as they usually only employ ONE ASE Certified Tech just so they can say they do and chances are, that guy is the asst. manager or manager and is not in the store to diagnose/repair vehicles anyway. Find a service location in the link below or get some names out of the yellow-pages and do a drive-by. Garages that employ ASE Certified Technicians will be marked with the 'Blue-Seal' insignia. If unsure about whether a place employs Certified Techs, just ask to see their credentials. ALL ASE Certified Technicians will be PROUD to show and display their certificate(s).
Thanks for the question, I hope this information was helpful to you.
Fred
Knucklebusters Used Auto & Truck Parts, Inc.
www.knucklebusters.us
570-453-0910
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