Car Alarms: 2005 Crossfire Security System False Alarms, security alarm system, siren circuit


Question
I don't know if my original attempt to send this message was transmitted, so here is my message and question again:

Last weekend my 2005 Crossfire Roadster Convertible (with only 10,000 miles, but out of warranty) was parked on level ground with the factory OEM installed security alarm system set for monitoring.  After about 45 minutes the alarm siren and related flashing head and tail lights went off without any apparent reason.  No one was around to disturb the car and the key FOB was not touched anytime before the alarm siren and flashing lights were activated.  I was able to turn the alarm off with the key FOB, but after driving the car a couple miles, I parked the car on level ground and set the alarm ON again; and about 60 seconds later the alarm siren and flashing lights went ON again.  I am very confident that all alarm trigger switches are closed and in good condition.  I used the key FOB again to shut the alarm OFF and drove the car home (which was about an hour's drive).  When I got home, I parked the car in my garage on a level floor. I turned the engine off and DID NOT set the alarm.  About 60 seconds after I got out of the car, with all electronics and engine off and no alarm set, I heard a weak crackling sound like static in a speaker, which lasted for about 30 seconds, coming from the Alarm Siren area under the hood.  Now the Alarm Siren does not work under any condition, but the head and tail lights do flash as expected when the security system is triggered by opening a door after setting the alarm system.  I reviewed my Official Chrysler Service Manual, supposedly the same manual used by Chrysler Technicians at the Dealer, and made some voltage and continuity measurements on the Alarm Siren Circuit.  I found that the Alarm Siren Output Signal from the Central Locking Pump/Security System Module to the Alarm Siren is always at +12 volts in all ignition key modes (i.e., OFF, ON, ALARM SYSTEM SET FOR MONITORING, and ALARM SYSTEM TRIGGERED BY OPENING A DOOR).  When I triggered the alarm, the Signal Output voltage fluctuates between about 11.5 Volts to 12.5 Volts on my Digital Multimeter.  If I had an analog meter, I think it would display a bouncing meter needle between about 11.5 Volts and 12.5 Volts probably due the the circuit varying the voltage to get an increasing and decreasing Siren amplitude.  I also noticed that the Siren (which has an built-in internal battery for back-up operation in case the Security System lost main battery power) charging terminals has less than 1.0 volt capacity which leads me to believe that the internal battery has died.  Now that I provide some background on this condition, my question is what can I now do to identify to exact source of the original False Alarms and how do I fix the problem.  Also, is it highly likely that the source of the problem permanently damaged the Siren?

Answer
Hmmm, Not my area of expertise, so for
this one, I'd like to have you write
to my friend and collegue Robert M.
in my Forum at www.INSTALLSUPPORT@AOL.COM

Please email him and restate this question
& I am sure he will be happy to assist.

He's very good about getting back
to folks quickly

Tell him ALARMTEK
SENT YOU.

If anyone can give you a decent
and precise answer for you on this,
it's going to be Robert.

Good luck.

ALARMTEK