Car Alarms: aftermarket system 96 Plymouth grand voyager, plymouth grand voyager, negative battery cable


Question
Hello, you helped me before with this issue ( past correspondence cut and pasted below) but I am stuck again.

96 grand voyager, I let the battery run all the way down and then replaced it with a fully charge one.

as before I believed this triggered the after market alarm system to cut off the starter (van was starting and running great before this)

instead of finding the print out of your previous answer I keep on file at home I thought I knew what I was doing and fiddled with the valet toggle switch and key on/off

I think I turned the key to on then flicked the switch to the opposite side then back again then key to off, but not sure now.

I then went and found your previous answer to me that I keep on file just in case and followed the instructions.didnt work so I tried again and again to make sure I did it right

in the past it worked for me and mechanics who have done some work on the vehicle I believe the small LED light stayed off but van started, but this time it does not seem to be doing the trick.

I ran the obd codes and nothing was wrong just a 12 and a 55  as expected.

Do I have to wait a period of time to try again? has the switch gone bad? is there a way to locate and splice the starter disconnect wires? of course I would like to keep her out of the shop and fix it myself with your help if possible. Any help on how to proceed next would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

William
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2004
Question
Plymouth grand voyager se 1996 6cyc 3.3
the “service engine soon” light came on recently but the van still ran great.
I decided to reset light by removing negative battery cable for 5 minutes.
After reconnecting battery cable there was plenty of electrical power for lights, buzzer and locks etc. but van would not start or turn over at all.
Small red light on top of steering column was flashing but has stopped.
I switched the key on, off, on, off, on. To read flashing code from “service engine soon” light and got 12 “Battery or computer recently disconnected”
The fuses I could see look good. Fuse 15-a DRL was not installed.

I tried hitting the starter a few times to see if I could get a reaction- no change.
I did not hear the clicks I normally hear with a bad starter, all starts were perfect before I disconnected battery negative. I also try reseating relays- no change

I tried locking and unlocking doors a few times with key; don't have a keyless remote-no change (I did email previous owner to ask if there was one, I don't have the owner manual. I will continue to try the locking on locking with key a few more times to see if I get lucky.)does any know the correct procedure for this method?

I tried interchanging the ASD relay with the Fuel pump relay and checked the battery connectors – no effect (this vehicle is in remarkable good shape over all, no rust or corrosion, and all previous work and maintenance was done on time by pros)

The small red LED looking light that was flashing is located on top of the steering column close to the emergency light button. It was flashing when I first tried to start after I disconnected the battery. It does not flash now. Is that after market?

I do not remember seeing an indicator light in the message center and lights did not blink or horn sound on reconnection of battery. I Tried disconnecting and re-connecting the battery again. All doors tailgate and hood closed. – No effect

I checked for a broken wire in door boots. I found a small dent on the rear tailgate latch and examined wiring in door. It does lock and all wiring appears to be intact but it's hard to tell if the latch is absolutely perfectly set. It seems to be but I will keep checking.

I guess I will try the starter trick again and the key trick a few more times and fiddle with the rear door latch as best can.

Any more suggestions as to how I should proceed? I live in a really small town so I guess I will go describe the problem to a few of the places and see what they say. But we all know the chances are they will just tell me to bring it in and start replacing parts but I will ask anyway.

Thanks for your help!

Answer
Sound like it might be an aftermarket system that is hanging you up.
Ok, try this.
Put the key in the ignition, and turn forward
all the way just before cranking. Then within
5 seconds, press and hold in the valet/overide
button, found under the dash area,
until the installed LED (the blinking light)
in your dash area comes on solid.
(Your valet switch might be the toggle (on/off) type.
in this case, key on, flip switch in oposite direction,
key off.)

This should be valet. This overides
the starter kill relay in the alarm harness,
and returns the car back to disarmed mode.

The only thing that will work now on your system,
is the keyless entry if installed.

Just Repeat these steps to rearm your system.

That should do it.
If you want to remove it at this point,
take it to your neighborhood installer
for this, or buy the wiring chart for
the vehicle, and reverse engineer it wire
by wire, until it's safely removed.

Let me know what happens.

ALARMTEK
STARTERDISABLE.com

Answer
Hard to say at this point,
I mean it could be the truck and the BCM.
Could be the charging system and ground straps need
replacing. Too many variables. It could be
the alarm. Without the manual and such, if it's me,
I'd pull this unit, and replace update the system
with one that you understand how it operates and
have a fresh set of remotes etc...

This system seems to not do well when battery power
is removed. That makes it a wild card in the dependability
department. Most alarms will have an internal memory
battery, your's looses programming. This make
it difficult to keep as a security deterrent for my money.

I don't have alot more I can offer here,
short of replace it and if the trouble exsists,
then it's on to replacing the trucks parts etc...

Wish I could help more.

ALARMTEK