Car Stereos: Loose Wires?, crackling sound, minor bumps

Question
QUESTION: I have a KD-S590 CD stereo in my 1998 Honda Accord. It worked perfectly until I went over a speed bump a month ago. The stereo went off and came back on with a pop sound. Ever since then, it would flicker on and off whenever I go over reflectors or even minor bumps or gradient changes in the road. It would sometimes come on again if I jiggle the face plate around or put pressure on the top right corner of the face plate. When it comes back on, I would have to press a button on the radio to get the sound again. Starting yesterday, it refused to come back on no matter how I jiggle it or reattach it. The red light for the On/ATT button is still lit so I know there is power going to the unit, but face plate screen is not lit nor is there any popping or crackling sound. Any help would be appreciated.

ANSWER: Hi Clara,

What you're dealing with is the contacts from the faceplate to the deck having become too bent or corroded for them to make contact and be able to communicate anymore.

The first thing I'd try to do is clean the contacts.  You can get electrical contact cleaner at your local hardware store.  Gently clean them with this and some q-tips.

If that doesn't do it, unfortunately, you're likely looking at time for a new deck.  To prevent this in the future, I would suggest occasionally wiping a little oil on the contacts on your new deck every few months or so.  It will help protect them from corrosion.

Justin

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you Justin. Just out of curiosity, why would the On/ATT button still light up if it's the face plate connectors that is causing the problem? I assumed there wouldn't be any power to the face plate, but I'm guessing from your answer that it's possible only the part of the connection is damaged? That way there is still power to the face plate, but it won't turn on?

Answer
Hi Clara,

If you take a look at the connector on the back of the faceplate, you'll see there's a whole bunch of independent connectors.

A few of them are likely still making contact.  The ones that are are enough to light up only certain parts of the faceplate.  In your case, the on/att button.

Justin