QuestionI was Installing a pioneer 3100 dvd player in the Dash of a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT with infinity sound system.
Could not get continuous power to the unit, It would start for a few seconds flutter then shut off.....then it stopped getting power all together. we are using a pscosche wire harness for it. ran out of time so decided to plug the old radio back in until we could finish trouble shooting, ground wires all have a great connection. Now the factory radio doesn't get power and the clock also gets no power. Checked all the grounds, checked all the fuses under the steering wheel( don't know if there are more hiding some where.....) All the fuses are fine and i also noticed when i start my car the speedometer and tachometer flutter funny( the speedometer goes all the way up to 120 mph and then settles back at zero which it never did before, and the rpms go up to 6000 and they never did that before when i started the car.....please help we are stumped.
AnswerHmm...sounds like quite a pickle you got there. I can't necessarily tell you what's wrong, but I will give you some steps to go through to eliminate possibilities.
The first things that jumped to mind were the harness, constant hot wire, the accessory wire, the fuses, the ignition relay, and finally the computer. Any one of these things may be causing your problems and I will try to guide you through each one.
1. Harness - This is most likely your problem. There are plenty of vehicles that require a more expensive, special harness to integrate aftermarket radios. I know Scosche is a very cheap brand and it's possible this could be causing all of your problems. Same year Pontiacs have similar problems, but they lose dash lights when a radio is installed as an example. Other vehicles lose factory alarms, door locks, etc..
Here is the harness you would need: http://www.installer.com/item/display_item.php?it=70-7301
2. Constant hot - This will be the yellow 12V wire from a constant source. I'm sure your connections are good, but if there is trouble upstream of the head unit, this would explain the clock not getting a signal. Get a multimeter and verify a 12-14V signal between this wire and the ground with the car on and off. If there is little to none, a new wire is needed. You can run one directly from the battery (with a fuse) into the HU.
3. Accessory - This will be the red wire that comes from the ignition relay. When the key is on, this will close a circuit to this wire which feeds a relay on the HU board to close the circuit to the power supply. Verify this wire is getting 12-14V with the car running or key on. If it's not, it's possible there is a short or the ignition relay is bad. A bad ignition relay would also explain erratic actions of your gauge cluster. You would most likely have to replace both.
4. Fuses - Just because a fuse looks good does not mean it is. I've had plenty of perfect looking fuses have a 12V drop across the terminals. Take a multimeter (voltmeter) and check the DC voltage on both sides of the connected fuse with car running. It should read very little to 0V if it's good. If this is impossible, check the impedance of the fuse itself (ohms). Pull the fuse, hold the leads on either side to measure the resistance. If you read Ol (overload) or something in Megaohms, the fuse is bad. Also check the voltage of the slots in which the fuse belongs. There could be a problem upstream of the box. Also, if I remember correctly, don't these cars have a separate fuse for radio AND clock?
5. Ignition relay - If this has gone bad, then you may have more problems very soon. Windshield wipers, radio, gauges, etc. will begin to fail. This is a likely cause of the problem, but uncommon. Relays have very intricate designs and they have a gray area for functionality. It could be in a degraded state.
6. Computer - If your gauges are spiking and resetting every time, this could mean the computer is not getting power while the car is off, or there's a firmware problem. This is probably the least likely problem, but it's still a possibility. If you have steering wheel controls, I've seen radios mess up all kinds of things but 99% of the time it's the wrong harness and not the computer.
I'm willing to bet it's the harness, but I've given the other problems that I've seen before as well. It really sounds like there's a power issue somewhere rather than a simple component or install fault. I don't know if there are vacuum lines behind the radio, but they've been known to rub over and over shorting wires.
Let me know what you find out from these tests and I will help you troubleshoot more.
