QuestionQUESTION: regarding this answer http://en.allexperts.com/q/Car-Stereos-3638/2009/2/stereo-problems.htm
I find this very helpful, but just to clarify:
If I replace the Delco AM/FM/CD/Cassette in my 2000 Buick Lesabre custom, I can choose to use a GM 32pin adapter alone and run the red and yellow wires together to make it work, understanding that I have to remember to turn the deck off? Are there any other issues I should worry about re: airbag, etc.? The system does not have OnStar and I don't care about chimes. Could I use a PAS SWI X infared steering wheel control adapter (to retain steering wheel button controls) provided its compatible with my deck?
ANSWER: Hi Mark,
Your plan will work, except that you wouldn't use a "GM 32-pin adapter". The 32-pin harness (Metra 70-2001) works for a lot of earlier GM vehicles, but the 2000+ LeSabre uses a "dock-and-lock" type of connector. Instead of a wire harness and plug in the back of the radio, there's a fixed set of contacts mounted in the rear of the radio cavity. The factory radio plugs itself into the contacts (and a separate antenna connector) when it's pushed into the cavity and locked into place.
To the best of my knowledge, Metra does not make a simple adapter harness for this radio; they just have the data-bus adapter modules, GMOS-05 or GMRC-04. Scosche offers a harness that will fit the dock-and-lock connector; the model number is GM07B. Note that the Scosche harness includes a red accessory power wire, but you can't use it. You can, as you mentioned, connect the new head unit's red and yellow wires directly to the yellow wire on the GM07B harness; this does risk draining your battery if you forget to switch the deck off.
The only factory functions that will be lost are the warning chimes. These include door chimes, lights-left-on, and the seatbelt reminder chimes. The airbag system won't be affected by the factory radio removal. Additionally, the factory radio is used as an interface for some vehicle control functions (like resetting the oil change timer, for example) but usually there are alternate methods available.
I've used the SWI adapters in these cars several times without a problem. You'll have to make your wiring connections under the steering column, not behind the radio. If at all possible, you'll want to use one of the brand-specific SWI adapters (like the SWI-PS for some Sony and Pioneer head units). The SWI-X uses an infrared emitter that needs to be mounted in a line of sight of the head unit's faceplate; it's more difficult to install and less reliable than the brand-specific adapters, which make a direct connection to a connector on the back of the head unit. Not all after-market head units have the connector, though.
Another challenge with a head unit installation in these cars is mounting depth. It's often necessary to dismount the dock-and-lock connector and antenna connector, and push them out of the way before the new head unit will fit into the cavity. Sometimes you'll also have to do some cutting at the rear of the radio cavity as well.
Hope this helps!
Brian
P.S. Mark, I wanted to revise this answer in light of some testing I did this morning.
I measured the current draw of a head unit I have on hand, with and without voltage present on the red wire.
With the yellow wire powered and the red wire un-powered, the head unit drew about 2.5mA. This is no threat to drain a car battery except over an extremely long period of time.
Connecting the red wire pushed the current draw to about 150mA. This was with the head unit switched off, and the faceplate removed. Depending on the battery, a 150mA draw might drain it over a day or two.
Your head unit might or might not be similar to the one I tested. However, it's definitely possible that if you leave the red wire connected to a constant voltage source, you could run into battery drain issues even if you remember to shut the deck off.
To avoid this, your best option is to connect the red accessory wire to a key-switched power source, as I mentioned in the answer you linked. Another option might be to install a toggle switch on the red power lead; then you'd have to remember to flip the switch off rather than just shutting the head unit off.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thank you for all of this. The headunit I have is an older Clarion DX555MP for which I'm pretty sure I would need infared to control from the steering wheel (no connector for a wired remote). It is starting to sound like more trouble than it is worth.. Cost is an issue here and this car does have 300000k on it :)
All I really wanted was an input I can plug my mp3 player into. Can you recommend an "Auxiliary Input Converter" that will work with this car? The deck is a Delco CD/Cassette that looks just like this:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/00-01-BUICK-LESABRE-RADIO-CD-CASSETTE-OVERSTOCK-SALE_W0QQitem
Unfortunately I seem to have screwed up the tape mechanism while trying a cheap cassette-adapter so I think that route is out.
Is there an input for a cd changer on the back of this deck that can be used somehow? Any cheap (sub $100) solution you can think of?
I'd like to avoid an fm modulator if it all possible (unless there's a really good one I don't know about)
Thank you
ANSWER: Mark,
Unfortunately, with your particular radio, an FM modulator is your only option. Your link includes a picture that gives a good idea why: if you look at the rear of the radio, you'll see that it only has the set of "dock-and-lock" contacts, as well as the antenna plug. There's no extra plug for an external CD changer, or--due to the mounting design--any practical way of interfacing with the unit from the rear.
FM modulators seem to have a bad reputation, and it's true that the "wireless" models can be unpredictable. However, I've usually gotten good results with a hardwired FM modulator. This type of device connects directly into the antenna plug at the back of the radio, so that you get the clearest possible signal; at the same time, it cuts off the regular FM antenna input whenever the auxiliary device is operating. That makes them effectively immune to interference from any but the strongest FM radio stations.
A hardwired FM modulator requires a power/ground connection, and will include an input and output for the vehicle's antenna. Typically, you'd unplug the existing antenna plug from the back of the factory radio, and replace it with the output plug from the FM modulator. The stock antenna plug would then be connected to the FM modulator's input jack. In your car, you can't do this behind the radio, because of the way the antenna plug is mounted at the back of the radio cavity. However, if you remove the end panel of the passenger side dash, and the passenger-side A-pillar panel, you'll find the antenna cable there with a plug and socket that will work perfectly for your FM modulator connection.
Here's an example of an FM modulator model I've used several times:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=388&CategoryID=45
This particular one includes an adapter cable for charging an iPod, as well as an auxiliary input jack that can be mounted on the dash for a factory look. It uses a separate toggle switch for turning the FM modulator on and off (because the device cuts off the FM antenna input while in use, it needs to be turned off if you want to listen to the radio). You can find less expensive models that just include RCA inputs, instead of the mountable aux jack and iPod cable; as well as models with signal-sensing power switching so you don't need an external switch.
Hope this helps!
Brian
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: That's great I will definitely look into this.
If I remove the panels as you mention, and find the antenna plug- will the little modulator box fit in this area or could/should I run it down to the glovebox somehow? I don't need it to look super clean- really a stereo mini wire that can hang out of the glovebox (or that area) would be ideal for my purposes (no ipod or charging stuff)
. Is there a power/ground connection in this area that I need to tap into as well or do I still have to pull the deck for that? I'd rather not pull the deck because I don't want to have to deal with theft/reset codes etc.
Thanks alot you've been a great help.
AnswerHi Mark,
There should be plenty of room for the FM modulator in the area near the antenna junction I mentioned, or behind (or under) the glove box area.
I don't think you'll find a power or ground connection in that area; you'll need to extend the wire to some other power source. Pulling the radio won't help you in any case, as there are no accessible power wires there--just contacts and a sealed ribbon cable. The easiest option might be to tap the cigarette lighter power wiring.
Brian
