QuestionQUESTION: Brian, follow up on last issue, once again you were right on target, I grounded the blue wire from the bypass and it started just perfect, my new questions: can I leave the blue wire from the bypass grounded or should I add a relay to the neg wire from the R/S?.... just in case you feel like digging deeper: I try to program the truck keyless sys to recognize the remotes from the R/S without luck (turning the ignition 8 times while pressing the lock button on the remote) therefore I'm gonna have to interact with the wires on the truck, I know I need diodes but any hints will be greatly appreciated, once again thanks for all the help you have given me, Hector
ANSWER: Hector,
There are three problems with leaving the bypass module grounded:
-This is likely to drain your battery if the vehicle isn't started for a few days.
-It will make your factory anti-theft system ineffective.
-Some Ford vehicles don't like to see two different key signals when starting. This might prevent you from starting the vehicle with a key.
By far the best solution is to use the ground-while-running output to activate the bypass. You can try using the GWR to trigger a relay, and connect the bypass to ground through the relay; but this really shouldn't be necessary. If the GWR output can activate a relay, then it should be able to activate the bypass directly. However, if it works, then that should solve your problem entirely.
You may find that the GWR output won't trigger a relay either. In this case, you can try improving the main ground wire connection from the remote start unit. The best place to ground the system is to the metal of the driver's kick panel. Scrape away the paint at the ground point. A poor system ground can cause problems with the negative outputs, including the GWR.
If it turns out that the GWR just isn't working, then you don't have many good options. There's no other output from the remote starter that can be used to activate the bypass. However, if you can't get the GWR to work, and replacing the remote start unit isn't a practical option, then there are a few ways you can work around it. Let me know if it comes to that.
As for your door lock system, you shouldn't require diodes. The lock/unlock outputs from the AS-2775 are negative, so they can be connected directly to the vehicle's negative door lock control wires. (This assumes that the truck is equipped with a factory keyless entry system; if not, then you may need to wire relays to control the door locks). The lock wire should be pink/yellow, and the unlock wire pink/green, both located in a wire bundle high up in the driver's kick panel area. The pink/yellow should test with 12 volts, and drop to 0 volts when you hold the "lock" button on the door; the pink/green will test the same way with the "unlock" button. Connecting the lock/unlock outputs directly to these wires should let you lock and unlock the truck with the new remotes.
Some Ford trucks have a GEM module that "sleeps" after a few minutes. This would prevent the door locks from working properly. To test this, close the door, and press the "lock" button on the door panel. Wait about 5 minutes, then press the "unlock" button. If it unlocks, you don't have to do anything special; if it doesn't, then let me know, and I'll try to find a wiring diagram for a GEM module wake-up.
Brian
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Brian
I cant get the GWR to activate the bypass, moved the ground wire around, try a relay with the GWR, (the GWR wont get the relay going), however I get good result with the orange wire (starter kill wire),Can I used the orange wire to activate the bypass? what are my other options...
when I connect the GWR to the bypass the power on the wire goes to zero and still reads zero while in the remote starting process.. Thanks again, Hector
AnswerHector,
The orange starter kill wire is also known as a "ground when armed" wire. Using this with your 555F would keep the bypass module activated whenever the unit was armed (it's not really an alarm, but it's considered "armed" when you lock the doors with the remote). This is likely to drain your battery. Also, you wouldn't be able to remote-start the vehicle unless you had the system armed.
Here's an alternate method for using a relay to activate the 555F during remote start, without the GWR wire:
Connect the blue wire of the 555F to ground.
Connect the red wire to terminal 30 of a relay.
Connect relay terminals 87A and 85 to the pink ignition output wire from the remote starter.
Connect relay terminal 86 to the black/pink key sense wire in the truck's ignition switch harness. This wire should show continuity to chassis ground whenever the key is placed in the ignition.
The relay's 87 terminal shouldn't be connected to anything; but it needs to be insulated so it can't cause a short.
Here's how this should work:
Whenever you activate the remote starter, voltage from the ignition output should flow through the relay, and activate the 555F. This should allow the vehicle to remote start without a key in the ignition.
When you insert a key in the ignition, the key sense wire will be grounded, activating the relay. When the relay is activated, it cuts the power to the 555F. This should keep the 555F from being activated when you're starting the truck normally with the key.
The only disadvantage to this setup is that it would be easier for a thief to start your vehicle by "hot-wiring" the ignition. You'd still need to use the coded key to start the vehicle normally.
Hope this helps!
Brian
