QuestionQUESTION: hey Scott tom again! I get what your saying now and yea our head unit has
50 rms so should be good for my speakers ( I think I'm going Polk audio) but
any thought on what type of amplifier I should get? I double checked the
solobaric l7 I'm buying is a ten inch and it's 1200 watt max and 600 rms
which from what your saying it's gonna bump! Thanks for all the help again
man.
ANSWER: Sounds like a good choice in door speakers. As I mentioned earlier there is guidelines to buying an amp, but if you want my personal favorites, I would choose Hifonics, Phoenix Gold, or Rockford Fosgate. These are pretty high-end, and pretty pricy. If you want something a little more affordable, I would suggest Alpine, Kenwood, or Orion. Be sure and look for Class D. These amps use better circuitry to keep the power as high as possible. Also, I didn't mention them earlier, because they are quite expensive, but the best door speakers are MB Quart. They are very expensive, but will pass any test you throw at them. Also, when you have one sub, and a two channel amp, the power doubles into one channel. Your on the way.
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QUESTION: awesome sounds good man. Last question (hopefully) my stock system had
an 8 inch sub in it as well said to handle 100 watts total idk rms. I know our
head unit is 50 rms so what I'm getting at is if I directly wire the new
speakers and the old sub to the head unit will the sub rob my speakers of all
the power? Will it be evenly distributed and for that matter even possible?
Your expertise has been invaluable man thanks again!
ANSWER: It is not possible to wire to the factory sub without an additional amp. Your stereo only has 4 channel output. That is one for each door. If you tried to splice off one of those channels, it would make that channel too low. Only a separate channel would do it correctly. Your well on the way. Just remember one channel per speaker, or one speaker per channel. Let me know how it goes. -Scott
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QUESTION: Hey Scoot I put all my eggs in one basket so this should be the last one i got for ya. Im looking at Kicker ZX750.1 Amp to power the 10 inch L7 Solobaric, 300 watts rms at 4 ohm, 750 watts at 2 ohms. Whats the deal with the ohms? Also, does that sound like a good pairing? For speakers I actually decided on infinity what i want to know is what the deal with a componet system means? i mean the one im looking at comes with the tweeters so i thought it was a good deal but does this entail more power or something? Also if i get a tweeter speaker combo with my two back door speakers and the tweeters for the front come with those, is that going to be a problem? Thanks again
AnswerOk, that amp will match, powerwise, with the subwoofer wired in parallel. That means splitting the positive and wiring to both voice coils of the sub, then splitting the negative wire and wiring to both negatives of the sub. Just be warned that you will not be able to turn the sub full blast and stay in the car. 300 watts is about the cutoff for the amount of power that your ears can handle before serious damage. However, you can turn the gain down on the amp if you want it to match your system, no problem. Actually, a better solution would be to wire your subs voice coils in series. You take the positive wire from the amp to one of the positive terminals of the sub, then wire from the negative of that coil to the positive of the other coil, then wire the negative from the amp to the negative of that coil. This raises the ohms to 8 ohms, and the output 150 watts "rms". Which will be much easier on your equipment, and sound better. Try both ways, and you will see. As for component speakers, they are the same for wiring as any other speakers, but they have a better crossover board and you must mount the tweeter somewhere else in the door. Preferably in a spot that has a direct line towards the listeners ears. If you buy that amp, be ready for some serious power. No problems, Scott
