Auto Racing: Brakes, rear axle assemblies, rear drum brakes

Question
Thank you so much for your answer.  We really appreciate that.  I just have one more question.  Now we've found a 1979 280Z and the rear end looks identical, everything is the same (rear a-arms?), anyway, would we be able to use those disc brakes on a 1974 260Z?



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Followup To
Question -
Will rear disc brakes from a 1982 280ZX bolt onto a 1974 260Z with rear drum brakes?
Answer -
Hi Tammy !

Bolt on - - - well no, but they will be close.  It's a good conversion to persue but there will be some other things to do to acomplish it.  Since I haven't done one, I can't tell you exactly what to expect, but the bracket that holds the brake caliper will either have to be fitted to the 260, or another bracket fabricated to do the job.  Other than that, the rotors will fit the 260 axles, wheels will still fit and so forth.  The other problem will be attaching the emergency brake to the rear calipers. This will be necessary to keep the self adjusting feature.  

AND While you have the calipers off the car(s)  be sure and disassemble them and thoroughly lubricate the threads that advance the adjustment mechanizm.  They do tend to corrode and are a ral stinker to work with when that's happened.  

Hope this is a help. I'm here to help if you need anything else- - -ask away

Sincerely

Dan Liddy
Sarasota Florida  

Answer
Hi again Tammy:

The rear end may LOOK the same on first glance, but it's not at all. The 79 280ZX has semi trailing arm rear suspension, something Porsche invented in 1955.  It didn't work then, it doesn't work now. However, they persist cuz it rides softly.   If there is no "X" after the "Z" then it's a late 78.  If it has disc brakes it's a real rarity.

Both of them however use the same type of stub axles, bearings and so forth, so it's possible that most of the parts may be moved successfuly from the 280 ZX to the 240-260 Z cars. First you'll have to disassemble both rear axle assemblies.  The nut that retains the stub axle inthe "A" Arm is installed at the factory with tremendous force and usually requires a pretty rugged air impact wrench to remove it.

 Note before you start that one edge of the nut  is 'staked' to hold it in place.  What ever you can do to chisel the staked part out will help.  It's probably going to damage the threads on the axles anyway, but anything you can do to reduce the damage will be a plus. Once those nuts are off and out of the way, you can clean up the threads up with a small file. It may be best to order replacement nuts from Nissan.

When re-installing them, use the air wrench again, and a dose of Loctite to hold them in place.  The 250 Lbs. of torque they call for is not necessary, but it's good to have them as tight as you can get them. Check that they turn freely.  Be sure and grease the bearings and leave a gob of grease in the space between them.

I keep threatening to do a disc brakke conversion on one of my race cars, but it stops well with the aluminum drum brakes, and I have plenty of other stuff to do to it.

Good luck with the project, thanks for the challenging questions.

Dan Liddy
Sarasota, Florida