QuestionQUESTION: 37 degree am. I start and run the car to defrost front and rear windows.
All good ready to pull off of curb and I by habit hit the drivers window
switch , window stuck from ice I hit the up switch to possibly counteract
the down action. I drive a 1/2 mile park the car for an hour. jump back in
to drive home, starts fine, non op window regs? I drive a couple hundred
feet and realize abs and traction control light are on..? I get back to the
house and the keyless locks and the trunck switch are inop....
Heater motor inop but the display does turn on and let you hit + to
increase the speed.
I looked at all fuses in the trunk glove box and I checked 75 and 76 fuses
all ok.
What am I missing?
ANSWER: Wow! Rough day huh?
OK. Looks like there are multiple things happening. Let's try to separate and conquer, then see if some may be tied together.
Drivers side power window. Check fuses 6 and 20 and 53, and if that's good check fuse 113 (80 amp). If both of those are good, let me know the status of the other power widows, both from your drivers door switches and the individual door switches.
ABS and Traction Control lights: You really should get the code read to find out exactly what it is. Check fuses 8, 17, 30, 31, and 32. However, these two both going on is often a sign of a bad ABS sensor (also called speed sensor) at one of the wheels. (Is the speedometer also not working? That can help you diagose which rear sensor is bad.) It's possible that the ABS unit has gone bad, but I would guess that it is one of the wheel sensors. I've only seen rear ones go out, though the front can too. They're a real pain to get out, but they are replacable yourself Google it for the e39's and you'll get some tips.
I'd give it a day or two to see if they stay on, and if they do (and the speedometer is OK), then check the connectors (I had an e38 with a dirt filled connector that caused the problem), then start look at replacing sensors.
Keyless locks and trunk switch: Check fuse 29 and 53.
Heater Motor: Check fuses 20, 28, 29 and 46 (if there).
Primary fuses that may be causing more than one of these" 102, 108, 113. Check these also.
Hopefully this is enough to get a couple of the problems resolved, then let me know what you have, and we can take it from there.
Good luck. Electrical trouble shooting is a matter of following good practices and taking things in order.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Great tips! My background is working on German cars but early VW up to A3 body style FYI.
All fuses look good. Before I sent out the SOS I had checked both fuses behind the glove box 75& 76 I think? Also the $) amp in the trunk too.
I have no clue to where 113 is or 102,108,or 113?
Window switches. ALL Drivers door are dead. Pass front works on pass side. Rears are dead and yes I checked the child switch:)
Key less system works on Pass door only too?
Let me know your thoughts and my Ph# is if that helps at all too?
Thank you for your guidance!
Kyle Wade
ANSWER: Fuses 102 is in the trunk on the right side. Fuses 108 and 113 are under the carpet beneath the passenger seat.
Rear window fuses are 11 and 27, above the glove box.
Fuse 29, above the glove box, sends power to the Drivers Door Module, which controls drivers side power window, power lock, and power mirror. (Does the drivers side mirror work?)
The power goes through fuse 100 (200amp), then through fuse 113 (80 amp), then to fuses 13, 27, 28, 29, 30, and 76. Fuse 13 is your drivers side power seat. If your seat functions normally, then it's not 113.
If your seat works and your drivers side power mirror doesn't work either, it's looking like it's either your fuse 29, powering the drivers Door Module, or the Drivers Door Module itself.
How about your other issues?
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Well,
In fuse block # 4 there was a burnt wire... I fixed it put everything back together and still the same issues. I used a volt meter NOT a test light when checking a number of the fuses too. So I realized I needed to go back to square one.
With a test light checked fuses you asked me too and found 27/29/30/31 No Power. Back under the seat that I had put back in place (note to self leave out until fixed) and tested all the 80 amp breakers in there all good.... THEN I SAW IT! Another wire in the block connected to the spade connectors under the top layer was "Not connected" to the connector! I placed it back on and all good. I replaced the connector end and retested everything. All Good.
I just took it for a 20 mile drive to set the monitors and all is well!
THANK YOU so much for your guidance. I would still be stuck without your vision and guidance!
AnswerKyle,
Glad to have been of assistance.
Suggest you "pay back" in the following way: Provide similar assistance to someone you know who's having a car problem and can't afford a mechanic. Single mom, unemployed, etc.
You've got a great car. Enjoy it!
