QuestionDear Tino,
I got the car back from the shop today, Running!!! The Mechanic's opinion
was that when the ignition coil went out, it caused the plugs to foul out. The
plugs needed to be removed and cleaned before it could start. The car is still
running a little rich and causing the Check Engine Light to come on
intermittently.
Prior to giving it back to me after the head gasket job, he checked the
timing, compression, rings, valves, pistons and walls and they all looked real
good. The fuel pressure pump pressure was about 2lbs. TOO high and he
wasn't sure if that was contributing to the richness. He adjusted the "Air Flow
Sensor" to run as lean as possible but said the it probably needs replacement
because he's leaned it out as much as possible. So that's next on the list. He
also said we've done alot to the car to allow it to get more fuel, (injectors, fuel
filter, head gasket?) it that MAY have something to do with it running rich.
That was a good point you made about the coil numbers matching. Mine,
fortunately did. A new coil is second on the list.
Thanks for all your help. I'll let you know if the air flow sensor helps.
P.S. I have a much greater appreciation for what professional mechanics do.
A good one is well worth the money spent.
Annie :)
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
Dear Tino,
To answer your questions:
1. The car did start easily right after the repair and several times after new
fuel rail was re-installed. The injectors were cleaned, had new filters, o-ring
and tips put on.
2. The car has not over heated since repairs and collant seems clean.
3. The mechanic said the engine looked very good "tight" and the head
needed minimal resurfacing
4. It sparked Out of the distributor to plugs (only checked one plug wire)
5. The car now cranks but won't start
I hope this narrows it down a little or helps to eliminate some possibilties. I'll
ask the mechanic to do those tests if he hasn't already. This got ugly real
fast. I'll let you know how this all turns out.
Thanks again, you've been great! Please keep your fingers crossed for me.
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
Dear Tino,
It's me again. I can't get this burger to start.
History:
Blew head gasket - took to shop to replace, resurface , etc.
Got car back running rough. "Check Engine Light" on. Mechanic said it would
need an oem O2 sensor but to let all the contaminates burn out of exhaust
before replacing. I ran the car for a couple 100 miles then replaced O2
sensor. I discovered a vacuum leak (bad o ring on injector) and had all the
injectors reconditioned by a shop that does that. I reinstalled fuel rail and
replaced rubber fuel lines connected to it.
Car continued to idle rough, took it back to the shop to have computer
cleared and ran a little bit better then started idling rougher after a couple of
days. Stopped at a light, car really started idling rough, black smoke, etc. Got
it home and checked O2 connector (fine) Rubber fuel lines (fine). Now car
won't start.
Then checked ignition coil and it was bad (no resistance on #15 & #4, should
have been 9000 ohms). Replaced this with one from salvage yard (money
starting to run out:()
I have spark on coil wire and fuel appears to be getting at least to the fuel
pressure pump.
Could this be a timing issue (the shop did have the chain off) or a valve issue,
or a computer issue, fuel pressure pump issue?
The car acts like it's flooded. Is there some place on the return that can be
bad?
Thanks for your help. I did have it towed back to the shop to see if they
could figure it out. I don't like to second guess professional mechanics, but I
sure wished I'd got my car back running well. I'm at a loss as to what to do
next.
Thanks for any suggestions
_ Annie The Grandma Mechanic
-----Answer-----
Hi Annie,
This is not easy one considering that the car is not new plus the fact that it
had 2 recent repairs (head gasket and injectors).
But first--- a) you failed to mention if it started easy when you first got it
from the shop that put in new
head gasket, and later on after the injector repair.Also if it cranks now but
does not start. Regarding injector "repairs", other than just replacing the seals
or electric connectors, I do not subscribe to this. Wornout injectors are just
that, wornout and no repair procedure can correct them.
b) has it tended to overheat also after that
head repair?
c) assuming that the mechanic did the right timing procedures for
the cam/valves/distributor/crkshaft,
were the valves and pistons still visually ok after the head was removed?
d) when you say there is a spark in the coil wire, is it after the coil
but not at the spark plug or spark plug wire? A quick timing light check would
tell you if the timing is out of whack. Timing in this car can not be adjusted
with the distributor for the engine control module (DME) takes car of that. But
at least this will confirm indirectly if it was timed right during timing chain
installation.
e) I would recommend a series of tests:
1) fuel pressure test at pressure regulator
2) compression test of cylinders
3) block test of radiator to check integrity of cylinder
block, head and gaskets
f) I guess item D would tell you if the DME is still working
As you may see, it is a hodgepodge of very basic tests. Add to this a visual
check of the newly installed plugs for oil or unburned fuel.
And my last advice is not to spend more money until you are sure of the
expanse of what realy needs to be done and the various costs involved. Do
not throw good money after bad.
Tino
-----Answer-----
Hello Annie,
Thanks for the additional info. You are right that your patient took a dive very
fast.
Just on instinct... check the coil that you got from used parts. If your ignition
system uses points, the Bosch No. should be 0221 119 016. If transistorized,
it is
0221 122 010. They can not be interchanged.
Back to basics: If there is fuel pressure, and there is spark in the plugs,
normally you would suspect bad valve timing or other loose compression
problems (such as bad pistons/rings/etc). So if your mechanic would take the
time to recheck his timing belt settings, then it solves one problem. If the
compression test is ok, it solves another. Then it is back to ignition. Have the
contact points re-checked, maybe even the speed governor in the distributor
arm. Since it is a continuing process of repair, do not hesitate to tell me of
your progress or lack of it.
AnswerHello again Annie,
It is nice to hear that your engine is now running again.
On this older cars, you really need to have patience and a clear mind. Pls. note the following:
2 psi over 35 to 45 psi is not a big deal for your fuel system. But your plugs fouling up is a wait and see item.You should check for new fouling in a couple of days.If it is getting much more fuel than needed, hasn't the rpm gone up? And hasn't the 02 sensor readings gone rich? As you may well know, too much unburned fuel will damage your 02 sensor(s).
Some people are able to adjust the airflow meter with some success, though it is not recommended by BMW. But due to the cost of a new MAF, people do it. Just remember to have a clean air filter always for it is the no.1 thing that kills
airflow meters. After the ignition coil, the next thing that you need is an airflow meter (but it is kind of costly).
Have a nice weekend!
Tino
