QuestionQUESTION: I bought a New 2008 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 4X4 in Nov. 2007 VIN#3GTEK13MX8G114535. The first problem I had was the Rear Door Speakers would go in and out from time to time...fast forward to the present, all four door speakers are out. Only the Front Dash Tweeters work now. The Big problem now is the truck will not Start without the pain-staking attempts I have made to get it to start. The first time it happened the truck had 35000 miles. Was pulled to a local mechanic where he found nothing wrong with the battery, no codes...disconnected/reconnected my battery and it started first try. Yeh, I know, should've taken it to the dealer right then and there. Seemed like a non issue at the time because no codes popped up and it seemed like a minor hiccup that the dealer likely would not have detected at that time. Anyhow, the problem did not reoccur for a while after that. When it would reoccur, I did the disconnect/reconnect and it would work. Problem became progressively worse this past year. Multiple battery disconnects and became a once a week type problem until it became an everyday occurance. Somedays once I would get it started I would'nt have to do this again for the rest of the day. That solution no longer works. Started hunting...cleaned contacts on starter and solenoid with a soft brass buffing wheel Dremmel tool. Tried swapping starter relay with identical one off a known working circuit. Metered all fuses. Only odd-ball I found so far was the Driver Door Lock/Unlock connection was the only one coming out of the computer to have 11.2 VDC. The rest of the points on other connections showed 12 VDC. I did not meter the other doors. Tried new battery cables and terminal connectors. Checked voltage across the main fuse. Have found no signs of water intrusion anywhere in the vehicle. Before this troubleshooting began I noticed the security light on and yes I have done about as much research on PassKey III to write a book about it. All the while in the back of my mind I remembered that I made mental note to the problem popping up with weather changes. So I decided to put a portable electric heater on the driver floor and warm up/dryout any potential moisture or humidity, with the key turned in the ignition to On. A few minutes later the Security light dissappeared, turned the key off and then back to crank and it started. Before this I had tried the Key Relearn many times with both original keys. Sometimes worked and then not. Pulled the Theft Detterent Module and put it by itself in front the heater for a few minutes, reinstalled, as soon as I plugged it back in, the Security Light dissappeared and I was able to crank after moving the key from On to Off to Crank. I brought it to the Dealer one of these days when I was able to Crank and then a few minutes down the road the Security Light came back on, but did not kill me. The Tech. put his Tech 2 on my truck and cleared all of the codes I created by disconnecting and reconnecting things. And the only thing that would not clear was Security Not Communicating. Was told they were backed up and could bring it in later. I work 7 days at a time away from home and have been taking my wifes car. When I got back I did the TDM bathroom heater trick again, got my truck started and went straight to the Dealer and bought a new TDM. 9 Days later they installed it and called to tell me that did not work. They want money up front now for "Starting from Scratch" at $80.00/Hr. GM had started a file on my truck before I had brought to the dealer to make them aware of the problem. GM Cust. Service Rep. now does'nt understand why they have not contacted GM for advice on a problem they are'nt sure how to fix. To let them tinker around at $80.00/hr for no telling how long and heaven only knows how many parts will get thrown around in the mix. Seems as though they could've had a better place to start than Scratch based on all the information I have given the Dealer and GM. I will now list peculiarities to help you sort out all of this information.
Weather Seems to have an effect
Security light will come back on after cranking "Sometimes"
Have had the entire dash go blank and when it came back on, all kinds of DIC stuff would come on. This happened maybe twice.
Had the A/C on but only Hot Air would come out. Happened twice on the same day, and has'nt reappeared.
Replaced Battery Cables
Tested all Door Speaker connections with a desktop speaker and it worked. Tested the old door speaker on the home stereo and none of them work.
Have had my security issue clear a few times by shutting the hood. Twice by buckling my seatbelt. 95% of the time with my ingenius heater method. Sometimes after leaving the trickle charger hooked up over night. This is all with a brand new $130 battery.
The dealer installed a new Theft Detterrent Module and they Claim that it did not fix the problem.
Hope this Helps.
ANSWER: Hi
2 questions, and you can private ask me the answers, please.
Where do you have the bathroom heaters and in which direction are they pointing.
There are 2 different types of GM cases that can be started. There is one by you a customer and there is one by the Technician to the Technical assistance center (TAC).
Second does it have a sunroof?
PLEASE write back, but I have seen a water leak on the DRIVERS side from the sunroof drain AND or water leak from a poor seam seal under the fender (fender/cowl joining area) that has caused very similar "ghost" problems.
Thanks
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I placed the heater on the floor board under the driver side dash point up, as if to try and dry out components around the steering column. No, I do not have a sunroof and I have already inspected for water intrusion around the Rear Center Roof Brake Light.
Thanks,
AnswerBrady
First the speakers.
I have seen all 4 speakers go out together, or very close to all at same time.
If it is out of warranty, then you have the option of after market speakers or going back with stock speakers.
Second the weird electrical conditions.
I would HIGHLY suspect water intrusion on the left side (drivers side) in the cowl/A Pillar area. There is a techincal service Bulletinn (#09-08-57-002B) that lists potential water leak points. as you yourself stated "Weather Seems to have an effect". If the vehicle was given to me and I saw this on the RO, personally this is where I would start. A water leak MAY NOT necessarily leak water on the floor or in the carpet.
The dry air from the bathroom heater is drying out the moisture I would guess.
The only other thing is if there once was water intrusion, and the connectors and terminals had micro fretting or corrosion. This can be fixed by cycling the connectors and applying Die-Electric grease to the terminals (Bulletin 09-06-03-004E). (You can serch these bulletin #'s through search engines.)
Remember there is a junction block on the floor area of the left foot, as well as a fuse box in the left IP panel taht can get wet from a window open in rain, etc...
ANY of these connectors could potentially lead to electrical issues.
That is where I would start.
Last.. From both sides of the story, IF I WERE YOU, I would go to the dealership and show the Tech that pulls the job EXACTLY where you point the heater, etc.. so he'll be able to judge better where to look for the problem, plus save time and $$$ in long run.
in YOUR defence I would attempt to get help from the local GM service rep (DSM) on repairs.
In the dealership defense, IF all you did was take it to them and tell them it needs a TDM, then that what you wanted, thats what they did. You diagnosed it. Now if you told them you THINK it needs a TDM, could they verify, and they diagnosed it as a TDM, then it is there problem. This all depends on what was said between you and the service consultant.
Is there another dealer you could use?
As usual these are all suggestions.
If you need further assistance, please do not hesitate to ask anytime.
