QuestionQUESTION: Hello Sir,
I have the type of vehicle stated in the subject line, but today I went out to start my car and got nothing. My starter did even click, just dead silence. All the electronics were working properly on my car, but I attempted to jump my battery none the less.
I hooked everything up and let it idle for a while, but still nothing, not even a little click. What would you recommend? Do you think its my starter solenoid? Also I am all about trying to learn how to fix new things, is there anywhere online where I could get step by step instructions for repairing it? I would appreciate any and all help that you could sacrifice! Thanks in advance
-BEN
ANSWER: Hi
Sounds like it very well may be your starter.
Here is the replacement preocedure directly from GM
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise vehicle.
Remove the flywheel inspection cover bolts.
Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
Remove the electrical connections from the starter motor.
Remove the starter motor mounting bolts.
Remove the starter motor.
Installation Procedure
Notice: Before installing the starter motor to the engine, tighten the nut next to the cap on the solenoid BAT terminal. If this terminal is not tight in the solenoid cap, the cap may be damaged during installation of electrical connections and cause the starter motor to fail later.
Install the starter motor to the engine.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the starter motor mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).
Install the electrical connection to the battery terminal on the solenoid.
Tighten
Tighten the battery terminal nut to 17 N·m (13 lb ft).
Install the electrical connections to the S terminal on the solenoid. Tighten
Tighten solenoid S terminal nut to 3 N·m (27 lb in).
Install the flywheel inspection cover.
Install the flywheel inspection cover bolts. Tighten
Tighten the flywheel inspection cover bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Lower vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure.
Now I will ask you to check one more thing before you replace starter... just see what the "Security" light on the dash was doing.
If it was blinking or on steady, let me know you MAY have a different issue.
Good Luck
Hope this helps
Pawl
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Pawl, My security light was on steady the day before my car wouldnt start... I just blew it off that day, didnt see it anymore the next time I drove my car, but when you asked it had just made me think of it.
ANSWER: Hi
Next time it will not start, see if it is not blinking. If so, it MAY be the theft deterrent system, and these vehicles are FAMOUS for having faulty Passlock Sensors.
I actually have one in my stall at work now as we speak!
And it's the third one in two weeks!! (Must be sunspots causing this!!! lol)
Anyways, if it i on steady or blinking when No Start, let me know and I'll help you with R&R of the Passlock sensor.
Until then Good Luck
Pawl
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hey,
I really appriciate your time with my little problem lol. When I turn it to the "ON" position the security light blinks steadily. I think your sunspot theory may be correct!! I hope the passlock sensor is an easy fix?? Thanks again in advance!
BEN
AnswerHi Ben
Lets see if this helps......
Remove instrument panel (I/P) accessory trim plate. (this is the radio/HVAC controller surround. Use a small thin flat screwdriver to pry the key round surround off. Put the key in, turn to on position, put gear selector below the D and just pry the plate off. Disconnect the lighter connector (on bottom is the tang to depress to release).
Insert the key to the ignition lock cylinder.
Remove the ignition lock cylinder from the switch:
Using a small curved tool or an L-shaped hex wrench, depress and hold the detent on the ignition lock cylinder. If you cannot locate the detent with the tool, remove the radio. View the detent through the radio opening.(I'll be honest, I ALWAYS remove the radio, just for access and room. The detent is in about the 5 oclock position and about a quarter inch in from the key cylinder. It is kinda hard to see, but it is there.)
Turn the key to the ON/RUN position.
Pull the ignition lock cylinder out with the key.
Remove the key from the lock cylinder.
If the cylinder does not rotate or is seized, follow the procedure in the ignition switch replacement.
OK here is where you'll have your new Passlock Sensor to put in.
First the Passlock sensor is the piece that does NOT rotate. The Key cylinder rotates INSIDE the sensor.
First flip the sensor/cylinder around and look at the rear. There'll be a spring loaded "wedge" shape and you'
ll also see a small square tab part on the rotating cylinder that is a casted part of the cylinder. look closely and famailiarize with the parts. The spring loaded wedge you'll be able to move it in and out with a small screwdriver or similar tool. The tab you will not.
These things are small... The wedge will come in the box with the Passlock sensor/cylinder kit.
To remove your key cylinder from the passlock sensor on the rear of the sensor/cylinder,. Re-insert the key and turn it until the key cylinder tab aligns itself with a "channel" that is machined in the sensor perfect size for the tab. when you have them aligned, (you may need an assistant) have them depress the wedge and pull the key cylinder out. Thats it.. now installation is reverse of removal. You can use the new wedge and spring, if needed.
IF you desire to put new tumblers in key cylinder, let me know, I'll assist you in that too. I personally do, but I don't want no come backs and I've done SO many, it only takes a few mins. more.
Put the key cylinder in the new sensor.
then you'll need to insert the new sensor/cyl. back in the ignition switch. Dont forget it'll be rotated to the run position. It only goes in one way, just don't turn the Ignition switch part.... turn JUST the key cylinder to match the ignition switch.
OK That'll get you started.
If you want to shoot me your email addy, I'll then shoot you my phone # so when/while your doing it, you'll have access to me.....IF you choose to do this.
The new part will probabally be in the $125-$150 range....
But I can tell you, you'll be saving 2-3 hours labor if you want to do it yourself.
Let me know
Pawl
