Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I have a 1994 park avenue with a 3800 V-6 that will die while running at any speed with out warning. After sitting for literaly a few minutes it will re-start. Right after it dies it will crank but not start until letting sit for a few minutes. When car dies all electrical devices on car work fine except the electric windows which will not roll down. Seconds before car dies while running the lights on the power door locks will flash off and then car quits running, because of this I rulled out the fuel pump. I replaced the ignition module and problem still exists. I also replaced ignition switch and problem still exists. I also replaced fuel filter because fuel pressure was 10 but after replacing fuel filter the pressure went up to required level and has stayed OK. I have a feeling it is electrical maybe even the ignition switch I replaced because after I got the new switch from the dealer and put it in now the doors will not automatically unlock when you put it into park which they did before I replaced it. I have a mechanic who is working on the problem, he has a computer and it wont tell him a darn thing. Can you please help I am in dier need. My wife just reminded me that I also put a new starter on the car, problem still exists.
Answer -
FIRST I need the ENTIRE past and current repair history on the vehicle.
The door locks that do not lock when shifted into pARK are most likely caused by the ignition switch under the dash mounted on the steering column is MIS-ADJUSTED.
let me know.
We bought the car recently. It has 130k miles and we had a new motor salvage motor put in it right after buying the car and motor runs great. I also replaced the heater core two weeks ago right after that is when the car started dieing on us. like I said in my first email, I replaced the starter, ignition module, fuel filter, and ignition switch last week trying to fix the dieing of the vehicle. After replacing the ignition switch on the car Is when the door locks quit working when you put it into park so I agree with your assesment on the MIS ADJUSTED switch. Now I need to fix the dieing of the vehicle because I can no longer trust the car as far as I can throw it. It might run for 3days without a problem and then again it might quit on me 3 times on the way home from work which is only 26miles away. This is all of the past history I can give you because I bought the car used with no past history. I do now a little about collision repair because I used to do a little, and I can tell you that the car has been in a bad rear collision because the rear cap of the vehicle from the rear axles back every thing has been replaced, axles, trunk lid, gas tank, break lines, etc.....They welded a new rear piece on the vehicle which I did not know until after purchase of vehicle when I pulled out the carpet in the trunk. Hope this new info. helps because I am at a point of wanting to sell the car if I can not get it right.
autohelp
AnswerOK, Don't get to excited, As it is bad for your heart.
Anytime you WELD on a computerized vehicle and do NOT isolate the computers from the vehicle all sorts of problems can arise.
Since the whole back end was replaced, There are several areas to look at.
1. Check to be sure that all of the wiring is fully intact
and repaired correctly.
2. Check to be sure that the fuel line, Fuel return line and vapor line are connected to the CORRECT steel lines as they are 3 different size steel lines and can easily be switched if not careful. Usually they attach the lines with rubber hoses, So look for kinks or obstructions.
3. Make sure that they ground wire from the sending unit on top of the gas tank is grounded to the frame. You should see a single BLACK wire attached to the vehicles frame near the fuel tank.
4. Check every electrical connection for internal corrosion.
5. I would drop the fuel tank and inspect it for debris and clean it out if necessary.
The most common fault of this kind is:
1. The ignition module.
2. An intermittent faulty fuel pump.
3. An intermittent faulty crank shaft sensor.
Have you been able to verify if your problem is FUEL or IGNITION ?.
Since you are losing battery voltage to the power windows, This would make me take a second look at the ignition switch being out of adjustment and also carefully check ALL of the FUSIBLE LINKS at the starter as they may appear to look OK from the outside but can be corroded internally.
Remember back when you had the older vehicles and the battery cables started to show the WHITE POWDRE coating at the terminal connections and you cut off the corroded end to replace it with a replacement end, But upon peeling back the insulation on the cable you could see corrosion and or discolorization of the wire 2 to 3 inches back from the end.
This may also be occuring at your battery cables and or within the FUSIBLE LINKS and it is not quite visible from the outside appearance.
Check some of these areas and let me know.
autohelp
