GMC Repair: 1981 gmc 1/2 ton no start, plastic connector, backup lights


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i changed the starter on my truck, and have no power to the S terminal on the starter.  I checked the fuses and found that one had melted at the top of the box ( it is marked as htr/ac).  I cut out the fusebox and replaced it and rewired it. I turn the key and still nothing.  I got my test light and began to probe the fusebox on the back side and have power everywhere except for the two bottom left .  There is a green wire and a grey wire that comes into the fusebox.  Also, there is a red wire that comes from under the dash and plugs into the front of the fusebox at the right corner second row from the top. I have power everywhere else. radio, door locks, horn, backup lights, but no power to the starter S tertminal.  There is power to the bat terminal. What is next? ignition switch or...
Answer -
What was the LAST repair on the vehicle ?. ANY repair of any nature ?. In most cases problems that arise days, weeks or even months later can usually be traced back to the previous repair.

PLEASE keep your questions on the ALLEXPERTS BOARD because without it, Us volunteers would NOT be needed.



You stated:

There is a red wire that comes from under the dash and plugs into the front of the fusebox at the right corner second row from the top.

ANSWER:

What COLOR is the plastic connector attached to this RED wire ?.

grey


QUESTION:

Does the A/C work ?.
yes,the blower works


QUESTION:

what color wire is on the "S" terminal at the
         starter ?
purple

Climb under the dash and locate the ignition switch. There should be 2 LARGE RED wires that have battery voltage at ALL times. Is there ?.
having trouble locating it
thanks
Let me know.


autohelp
Answer -
QUESTION:

Does the A/C work ?.
yes,the blower works

Does the A/C compressor operate ?.


Climb under the dash and locate the ignition switch. There should be 2 LARGE RED wires that have battery voltage at ALL times. Is there ?.
having trouble locating it

It is an electrical block that has 2 LARGE RED wires and several other smaller wires attached to it.

It is mounted ON the steering column under the dash.

EXAMPLE: When you turn your key in the steering column, There is a metal rod that runs from the key down inside the steering column and attaches to the IGNITION SWITCH.

There is also a long row of small wires on the opposite side of the steering column of which is for your turn signal and horn. his plastic wiring connector is flat and about 4 or 5 inches long, This is NOT your IGNITION SWITCH.

The IGNITION SWITCH has heavier (bigger) wires going to it. Just look for the LARGE RED wires that go to and from it.
Hello,  The two red wires that should have battery voltage at all times; is that with the key in run position or is there supposed to be power there constantly?  Should i check with the key on or off? Thanks for your help

autohelp

Answer -
You stated: "The two red wires that should have battery
         voltage at all times; is that with the key in
         run position or is there supposed to be power
         there constantly? Should i check with the key
         on or off?


Answer: This would be with the ignition OFF and inyour
       pocket.


Let me know what you find.
I found a blue plug in connector with four big wires that go into it.  They are a yellow, brown,. red, and pink wire. There is power to the red wire, but no power to the pink wire. Is this part of the ignition switch?  If it is, can I just splice a new plug connector, or do I have to keep looking?  I appreciate all the help so far. thanks,  jim
autohelp



OOPS, a TYPO. That's with the ignition OFF, Engine OFF and the keys in your pocket.
Answer -
You stated:

I found a blue plug in connector with four big wires that go into it. They are a yellow, brown,. red, and pink wire. There is power to the red wire, but no power to the pink wire. Is this part of the ignition switch? If it is, can I just splice a new plug connector, or do I have to keep looking? I appreciate all the help so far. thanks, jim


Answer: You have found the correct wires. Now, Do the following with this wire connector plugged in:

1. While testing for battery voltage at the PINK wire turn the ignition switch to the START position as if you were trying to start the vehicle. Do you have battery voltage at the PINK wire NOW ?.

2. Perfrom the same test as in step # with the BROWN and YELLOW wires and let me know what you get.
1- turned key to start position, power at pink.  Power at yellow. NO power at brown.  Next step is...
We are almost HOME,

autohelp
Answer -
OK, Let's recap:

IGNITION OFF: Battery voltage at the RED wire.    Power at red, check.


IGNITION ON: Battery voltage at BROWN and YELLOW
         wires. Dash lights are illuminting as is
         the OIL PRESSURE LIGHT.
Power at BROWN with key on.  NO POWER at YELLOW in ON position
Power at PINK and RED with key on.  
IGNITION at START position: Battery voltage at the PINK
         wire.
Power at YELLOW in start position.  BROWN has NO power in STArt POSITION.
QUESTION: Do you have TURN SIGNALS with key in the "ON" position ?.
Yes signal lights work

You ca e-mail me directly at: meperganfortis@msn.com for a faster response or you can acll me at (505) 285-3841, But I live in New Mexico.

We are almost done, 2 or 3 more tests and we will have found your problem.
yes, i have signal lights.  However, with the key on no power to brown wire
autohelp
Answer -
OK, Do you have battery voltage at the BROWN wire in ANY key position ?.

Accessory ?. POWER at ACC
Key "OFF" ?  NO POWER with key OFF
Key "ON" ?.  POWER with key ON
Key in START position ?. NO POWER in START position

With the headlights "ON" do you have battery voltage at the BROWN wire ?.
YES
autohelp
Answer -
Just to review the last test procedure:

IGNITION: (KEY) in the OFF position: You have battery
         voltage at the RED wire.



IGNITION: (KEY) in the ON position: You have battery
         voltage at the BROWN & YELLOW wires and the dash
         lights, Battery light, oil pressure light are
         lit up.



IGNITION: (KEY) Held in the START position: You have
         battery voltage at the PINK and the YELLOW
         wires.


BROWN wire has battery voltage in ALL key positions as long as the headlights are ON.


Please review the above statements and make SURE they are correct.



************************************************************

This next question is VERY IMPORTANT:


When you have the key held in the START position, Which wire has battery voltage ?. YELLOW, PINK, AND RED.

When you release the key back to the ON position which wire
loses battery voltage ?. IT APPEARS THE YELLOW WIRE LOSES POWER

  
We are 2 questions away from finding your problem. If you look on the plastic connector at the above paragraph question this WIRE, Of which COLOR you are going to tell me, should have a marking in the plastic housing saying C2.
Just to recap:  WITH HEADLIGHTS OFF; KEY at ACC: Brown wire has power. YELLOW wire has NO power. PINK has NO power. RED wire has power.
Key at OFF position: BROWN wire has NO power. YELLOW wire has NO power. PINK wire has NO power. RED wire has power.  Key at RUN position: BROWN wire has power. YELLOW wire has NO power. PINK wire has power. RED wire has power. Key held to START position:BROWN wire has NO power. YELLOW wire has power. PINK wire has power. RED wire has power.
WITH HEADLIGHTS ON; THE RESULTS ARE THE SAME AS FOR WHICH WIRES HAVE OR DO NOT HAVE POWER.
As for the wire and the C-2 housing I am unable to see well enough up under the dash to locate it.
Again, I want to thank you for your time and attention you have taken to assist me.

JIM

************************************************************

We have it narrowed down to only ONE cause and once I get your answer to the above questions your fault will be found and you can make the wire repair and you will be done.


Let me know.

autohelp

Answer -
OK, The YELLOW wire is the FAULT. This wire goes from the switch where you are testing it, Thru a large plastic wiring block that is mounted on the INSIDE of the firewall.

In the engine compartment on the firewall there is an identical wiring block that connects this OUTSIDE BLOCK to the INSIDE BLOCK.

Test for battery voltage while holding the KEY in the START position at BOTH THE INSIDE BLOCK AND OUTSIDE BLOCK at the YELLOW WIRE.

Do you have battery voltage at BOTH places ?. Make SURE you have the KEY held in the START position to do this test.


Let me know.

the yellow wire goes from under the dash to a connector at the base of the steering column and is paired up with a purple wire that runs to the block in question.  The yellow wire has power in START position, but the PURPLE wire that goes into the block has no power( inside engine compartment)
autohelp
Answer -
Start digging to find out WHY the YELLOW has battery voltage and since it is PAIRED-UP with the PURPLE wire, The PURPLE wire should have battery voltage also, As it is a PURPLE wire that connects to the "S" terminal on your starter solenoid.
Follow up recap:
Prior to starting this project my truck would just make a clicking sound at the starter, sometimes it would engage.  The last time however, it clicked and I repeatedely kept turning the key to start and back.  Then, there was no sound.  No click ,nothing.  I heard a noise come from under the dash, and thats when I found the melted fuse.  Is there something I am missing?  I am now tracing back wires to see why I still have no power to the S terminal at the starter, when there is power everywhere else. If this information provides any additional clues as to which direction to take please forward your opinion to me.  Thanks again for all the work you have helped me to get done thus far.  I just thought that this background info might provide a new path to take so I can get my truck running again.
Let me know what you find.


I do not have a staff of people helping me answer your questions, I do it all by myself, except some typing help from my wife or son as the old fingers just don't flex as well as they used to. Therefore, Due to being retired and an OLD computer, That is so old it does not even have SPELL CHECKER on it and being on a dial-up connection,  Please excuse the TYPO'S.

I do my best to respond to questions within 4 to 5 hours, But  due to the volume of questions I receive on a daily basis I answer them ASAP. If you require a faster response you can e-mail me directly at the below e-mail address as I check it more frequently.:

meperganfortis@msn.com

When you are asked to RATE THIS EXPERT the site it only allows for about 10 (TEN) words. Therefore,  I never get to read your full response. You can e-mail me directly at the above said personal e-mail site. But make sure that you RATE ME before e-mailing me directly if you so desire to do so.


There are also times that you have some written information that you just don't understand or need help with it, You can e-mail it to me at the above siad e-mail address or you can fax it to me, But contact me FIRST at the e-mail address and I will give you my fax #. However, Again due to my OLD computer I have to log off from the dial up service in order to receive any faxes on my seperate fax machine.

I am alway in need of Car, Truck and SUV service manuals as well as MOTORS MANUALS and if you would like to donate any that you have, I will be more than happy to pay REASONABLE shipping to get them. I do not want any Chilton or Hayes manuals as I personally do not like them as the information contained in them is very mis-leading in my opinion.

Retired in New Mexico and teaching my son to learn the trade.

autohelp

Answer
When you replaced the starter are you POSITIVE that you did not short out any of the FUSIBLE links that are also connected to the starter post ?. Did you physically test them AT the starter and up inside the large wiring harness of where these 4 to 6" long links go to ?. Check BOTH ends of ALL the fusible links.


WWhat did you find  ?.

autohelp