QuestionQUESTION: I have 4 (DVC) power acoustik FUBR-12 subwoofers and a massive P. 1500.1 amp. I have 2 dual vented boxes and have no clue how to hook it up. I need help please be simple yet specific. thanks
ANSWER: If you can provide the RMS watts and ohms of the subs as well as the full RMS wattage ratings of the amp at specific ohm loads, I can give you an accurate answer with diagrams.
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QUESTION: I know the subs RMS at 700 a piece. And I just bought the amp its 1500RMS and 3000W max. Its a monoblock amp but has 2 negative and 2 positive inputs next to eachother. Honestly I have no idea what ohms or ohm loads is.
ANSWER: If you can provide model numbers, I can find out.
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QUESTION: The amp is a massive P. 1500.1 and the subs are called power acoustik FUBR-12 subs. You can type them in any search engine and probably find what you need. thanks
AnswerA long one....
From what I can find the subs are 700 watts RMS 2 ohm DVC. That comes to be 2800 watts RMS power handling for all four of them together. The amp is 1500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm.
The ohm load is the electrical resistance the subs will have on the outputs of the amp. This in turn determines the power out.
Some mono amps have two sets of outputs only to make wiring subs in parallel easier. Both sets are from the same output. Think of it as a "second tap" of the first output. It's doesn't matter which positive you use, same with negative.
With 1500 watts RMS, each sub will get 375 watts RMS or just over half what each sub will handle.
To get a 1 ohm load to the amp, they must be wired together this way - http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/sparky3489/QUAD-PARALLEL-SERIES.jpg
The easiest way to not mess up the wiring is to save the pic and print it out and number the posts in the drawing 1-16, make tags for the subs with the same markings, then connect the numbers with wires.
DO NOT crank the gain to give the subs more power. You will clip the amp and could hurt the subs.
The purpose of the gain is to match the signal volts RMS coming from the source (CD player, etc.) to the input of the amp to prevent clipping.
Here is a guide that will help you set the gain correctly as well as choose the proper power wire size and HO alternator required to run the system (see below) http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621
You'll need a multi-meter (AC voltmeter), Microsoft Excel and a way to burn an audio CD from an MP3.
If you don't have Excel, e-mail me and I'll send you a condensed version sparky3489@yahoo.com
Also, since your total system power is a 1500 watts RMS and you may experience headlights dimming, you will need to:
1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace (or add to) the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 1/0 AWG wire.
A second battery is never a good idea as it's just an added strain on the alternator unless you plan on running the system with the engine off.
A cap is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help.
Happy thumping...
