QuestionQUESTION: I acually have a few questions for you. But here is some info I'm running two amps in my car a 4 channel jl audio A4300, and a monoblock class d 1400e also jl audio. Both these amps are ran off a single 4gauge power wire, however both have their own seperate ground which is taken down to bare metal. These amps are mounted on top of my sub box where they have plenty of ventalation. I dont have any problem with the a4300 amp which runs my 4 6" focal speakers, however my subs seem to overheat the other amp. I believe my subs are 4 ohm and my amp says it can take a 2 ohm min. subs are not bridged, just straight connection.
Questions:
1. Are my subs overpowering my amp causing it to overheat, if so could i connect them to my amp differently to avoid this?
2. Now that it is summer time I have noticed that my amp overheats faster. Is there anyway to help the cooling process off my amps? I have them mounted on top of my sub box with plenty of ventalation.
3. When I have my stereo up loud at night I notice my head lights and dash lights dim when my subs hit. Is it time for a new battery? is there on you recommend? Do I need to change any cables in the engine bay from the battery to the alt?
other than that I'm good =P. thanks for the help in advance.
Fishykidd
Questions
ANSWER: I hope you are not kidding me. These amps are big power. They pull big current off the car electrical system.
Bass speakers, such as subs, take enormous power from the battery system. You are running heavy duty wires that can pull big time current. It is no wonder when you hit a gut throbbing bass note that the car electrical system goes into cardiac arrest. And it is no wonder the amp runs hot.
Does the sub amp run hot when there is no audio pumping out - or when sound level is very low? That is the way it should be. When the audio level goes up, the amount of power into the upper end drivers is much, much less than the bass. Bass has most of the power requirements, especially in rock and show-off music.
So, I think your system is probably behaving normally. Have you thought of a fan on the amp to cool it?
So far as the lights dimming and the alternator dragging down the engine idle rpm, that is normal due to the great currents required by the sub amp system.
I think your system could benefit by adding a big power capacitor to the sub amp; it will smooth out the dc current drain and give you better bass and less struggle for the electrical system of the vehicle. Adding a bigger battery and heavy duty alternator will improve much also.
Let me know if there are other aspects you want to discuss; but sounds like you have a really potent system.
Have fun.
Cleggsan
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hey is me again, Fishykidd
Thank you for the info it helps a lot, however i have a few more questions to ask you.
1. Can I run two amps of the same power cap or do i need two?
2. What's the difference between single and multiple farad power caps?
3. I looked at some cooling fans on different sites and I'm a little confused on how do they work:
~Do they get power from the amp they are cooling?
~How do they cool the amps? Do i have to open the amp case?
AnswerIf the distance of the 12v wire going from one amp to the other amp is short, then one power cap is working for both amps whether you like it or not! This is because the dc resistance between the amps is very low and the power connections are essentially tied together.
Multiple farad caps are just more capacity. It is easier to connect one to each amp, but you can also just tie them together when the amps are close to each other.
Fans can be internal or external. Some amps have a heat sensitive switch for turning on the fan when the temperature gets high enough to activate it. Other arrangements are just an external fan blowing on the heatsink area and are either always on or switched on with a manual switch when things are getting warm.
Does this answer your questions adequately?
Let me know,
Cleggsan
