QuestionI am restoring my old car (1963 Valiant Convertible) and I want a solid stereo system. Trouble is I don't want to mess up the dash board and the glove box would make theft too easy, not to mention that is the only place in the car for maps etc.
Is there a car stereo with a wired remote that I can mount in the trunk?
Do I need an extra battery and high output alternator (it sounds like I do) and if so where should I mount the second battery?
I also have an MP3 player and want to be able to connect that to the stereo as well.
Am I asking too much? Will I have to settle for not being able to change channels without popping the trunk???
The car just got painted so add-ons should happen now. I'm thinking of getting extra power leads to the interior of the car as well as to the trunk. Is there a way to make this a more or less independent system that won't tax a 40 year old wiring harness? Will I need an extra amp meter mounted somewhere?
Basically, what do you suggest for an old convertible that is going to be a daily driver (as well as longer trips up the coast) for someone with a cell phone and a desire to hear good music?
Thanks for your help.
Answer An add-on system will need all new wiring for the audio system and its' power supply/ground.
Unless you are going for a one or two Kilowatt system, the stock alternator should suffice.
An extra battery would help only for extending the engine off playtime (but if you were to add one, I would place it in the trunk if there is no room in the engine compartment).
I am not aware of any current wired-remote headunits.
You are indeed asking too much of you suggest plugging a portable MP3 player into this 'wired remote'. You could plug it in to a headunit in the trunk but that would mean opening the trunk to access it to turn it on and off, ect.
To be truthful, with this many logistical questions, what I would suggest is finding a local professional to help you.
I can appreciate your tryting to get a heads up on where you are going with this and I am trying to assist. For instance, new wiring is a must.
I might also suggest that you consider a custom housing (which could be removed later) up front for the headunit and to get a good alarm system (one which includes infrasonic and accoustical triggers for the convertable top). Done corectly, the housing can even compliment and basically match the factory look. Then you could use a headunit that allows re-writable CD's to be played and has an aux input for your mp3 player. This headunit could run a remote CD changer in the trunk.
I would go with something like:
A Clarion headunit with a wireless remote (they will not work well [if at all] through the backseat and its' metal framing).
Polk Audio for the mids and highs.
Kicker for the subwoofer.
Autotek or Hifonics amps totalling about 300-500 watts of RMS power along with one Farad of stiffening capacitance.
Clarion CD changer is optional.
These components can yield outstanding accuracy, clarity and volume while tooling down the hiways.
If you want to re-ask this question privately, I could try to give you some more specifics as to predicted amperage consumption and what not.
If you do so, please let me know your budget limits and listening tastes/expectations and how much you are willing to modify the interior to accomplish this.
Sincerely,
Jerry Mael
