Questiondo u think that it could b the rca cables themselves, they r from walmart,they have really thin wire,i had the same deck, amp, and woofer in my bronco, and i didnt have any problems @ all with the noise, the only thing that i change when i put the stereo in the car was the amp kit, and i added more door spakers
-------------------------------------------
The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
yeah, i will do that, after i put the noise filter in it made it worse, now it does make the noise when the engine is running, and wen i rev it up it changes with the engine, i bolted the ground down like u said, i will try the thing with ground, and the deck, i was wondering if it may be something wrong with the amps internal crossover?
-------------------------------------------
The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
ok, i will do that with the ground, i already got some 4 gauge wire and all the connectors, as for the cross over i will remove that too.I just installed a set of yamaha tweeters, made a pretty good differnce in my hi end, i also installed a new set of rca cables, they r made by scosche, and i installed a noise filter,now the humming sound still is there, but it goes off when i turn the head lights on, i figured out why it was going off when i pulled the hand break up, its because there r driving lights when u start the car, when u pull up the e brake they go off, same as turning the head lights on, do u think i should get a different battery?and as for the eq, is made by absolute, i am un happy with the sound, i dont think that i have enough on the low end for having a 15" sub in that small of a car, i have the sub facing up, and the port is facing up, the box is made for the sub, so i really dont want to change boxes, so i figured it might help with the low end frequencys,, here is what i have so far, i have a pioneer deh 17 head unit, in the doors and rear side panels, they r sony explode 5.25", i have 2 3" yamaha tweeters, then i have the amp and the sub in the hatch part, the car is a hatch back model, i am just unhappy with the sound, i had the stereo in my 90 bronco before i sold it, i took it out and put it in the car and it doesnt sound as good, well this is all the info i can give hope it helps, thanks for the tips, really helped, i will do the things u said, and i will wait to hear from u, thanx
-------------------------------------------
The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
ok , i will change the ground, i have it ran with an existing ground, in the trunk, but there is paint there so i will clean it off, and do like u said, as for the infinity thing, i thought it was a cross over, a friend of mine gave it to me and said it was, it is a little black thing that has the infinity logo, then it says reference @ top in white letters, it has an input + & -, wf +&-, tw +&-, and a -3dB, all of them r screw down, no rca,what i did is connected the out put speaker wire comming off the amp to the input of the infinity, then i ran my spaker wire from the infinity wf + & - to my sub, i made a little difference, but with the humming its hard to tell, i also pland to hook up a perametric eq, i may need advice on that
-------------------------------------------
The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
ok, i have a 1998 chevy metro, i installed the stereo my self, for the power wire i ran 4 gauge, with a 100 amp inline fuse,my remote wire is 12 gauge and so is my ground, i have a performance techniques 1000 watt amp, i have the amp bridged, i have a 15" virtual tech sub in a chambered box, when i start the car, it makes a static noise through the sub, when i pull the emergency brake up it stops, when i rev the engine there is no noise so i didn't install a noise reducer, at low levels u can hear feed back from my his and i installed a infinity reference and it did not help, i want to fix these problems ,can u help
-----Answer-----
ok, I probably can help but we need to clear up a few things first. you started out good with the 4 guage power and 100 amp fuse, then you put in a 12 guage remote wire. thats a little sill cuz the remote wire doesnt carry any current, it just signals the amp to turn on, it could be as thin as a hair and still work the same. so you dont have to change that, but in future installs just remember the remote wire is typically 22 gauge wire and that's more than enough. now for the ground. This NEEDS to match the power wire so please redo the 12 gauge ground with 4 gauge wire to match the power line. make sure its well grounded to BARE metal, NO PAINT on the metal where it attaches. and dont just screw it down, bolt it down with a machine bolt and nut on the other side.
so as for the noise in the sub. after you fix the wiring problems listed above, remove the RCA connectors to the amplifier and see if there is still noise. (you are useing RCAs right, and not speaker level inputs to the amp, in other words you've replaced the factory head unit with an after market one that has RCAs?)
you said you installed an infinity refrence and it didnt help... an infinity refrence what? refrence is the series of dozzens of components from infinity, so tell me exactly what you're talking about.
lemmy know.
-----Answer-----
oooohhhh boy, ok, that crossover (the infinity thing) you described it perfectly so thank you, that's a crossover for a set of component door speakers. DONT use that for a sub. Just take that off and put the sub directly to the amp. As for the ground (a little more detail:
Drill a hole clean through the metal of your car, make sure there's no break lines or fuel lines before you drill (look under the car!) drill a 1/4 inch hole and then take 100 grit sandpaper and sand like a 1 - 1.5" diameter circle on both sides of the car until is shines like chrome(you'll have to crawl under for the bottom, yeah it sucks)when I say chrome, its ok if it's scratched up from the sandpaper but it will still shine.
Then bolt that ring terminal down, do me a favor and use a new bolt, new washers on each side, new nut on the end of the bolt and you said the gauge was wrong, so new 4 gauge ground wire and a new ring terminal, DONT USE THE OLD RING TERMINAL since its the wrong gauge and sure to be corroded all green and stuff.
Once you tighten that bolt up real hard, put a few squirts of spraypaint over top so it doesnt rust on top and the entire bottom, covering everything.
Like I said before, this may not solve your problem but its the right thing to do, if it doesnt help, we'll work on your problem after you fix the ground.
as for the parametric eq....... a true parametric eq can be an asset to a system but first of all, it should never be used to fix a problem like the hum you're having so I hope that's not the idea. 2nd, eqs can do alot more harm than damage if not used properly so sure, when the time comes, I'd be very happy to help you set it up. why do you think you need one though? what is your impression of your sound now? is there something in particular that "jumps out at you" or doesnt sound right?
Look forward to talking with you again!
-----Answer-----
ok, well fix the ground first. unfortunatly it sounds kindof like a ground loop. except ground loops usually make a noise like buzzing that has the same pitch as the engine and when you rev the engine the pitch of the noise in the speakers goes with it. But if it is a ground loop, there is a wiring change that may make a difference. (Sorry I dont have a cut and dry answer for you, but sometimes troubleshooting involves trying a few things)
At least as a temporary solution you can try this. AFTER you fix the ground on your amp, sneak a piece if 14-12 gauge ground wire under the amp's ground terminal along with that 4 guage that's there. run that 12-14 gauge ground up to the cd player (since it's a test you can just go around the car or over the seats, whatever, you dont have to run it nice and hide it. remove the cd player and disconnect its ground. connect the ground coming from the amp to your cd player's ground. turn the system on and see if that makes it better or worse. you may have to do the same trick with the posative as well for it to work, but basically this just gets your grounds together at the same location which goes a long way to illiminating ground loops.
-----Answer-----
it shouldnt be the amp's crossover specifically, but more like compatability between the amp and cd player. some pieces of equipment expect the shield of the RCA cable to be grounded, some want them a "floating" ground or isolated ground. Sometimes you can even take a thin piece of wire and attach it to the amps ground and to the outer shield of an RCA cable. this isnt the most recomended way but sometimes it works fine. You can also try this up at the cd player, just physicaly ground the shield of the rca cable. make sure you use ground though, not posative.
various combinations of being grounded or not grounded, etc. may prove the best solution.
Just be careful you dont get the wrong things against eachother.
AnswerRCA cables are probably one of the most gimmiky things around. 99% of the time a 2 dollar set will sound exactly the same as a 200 dollar set. I'd be extreamly suprised if your problem is in them. The only way the RCAs could be causeing the problem is if they are cut or pinched somewhere along the way, or if the ends are all corroded. you can easily test it by puting a new set of RCAs in, like I said before with the ground, since its a test, you can just go around the car or over seats or whatever, it doesnt have to be pretty for a test.
I'm pretty sure its a ground loop though. try the trick of runing the line from the amps ground up to the cd player's ground. again, make sure you use heavier wire, like 14-12 gauge.
Hey, thanks for all the great feedback too!
