QuestionI am replacing my stock radio in my car for a brand new Dual CD Deck, and I cannot figure out which wire's go where in my car. I can figure out the ones on the Deck, but I do not know where to hook them up to. And while trying to put in my new deck, my power locks, clock, dome lights, and dashboard lights all went out. Any Ideas?
AnswerHi Dereck,
Oops! I think it's 99% sure you have popped a fuse, check out the fuse box as they are on the same fuse circuit.
All new decks SHOULD if half decent come with ISO DIN connectors on, and you say you don't know the Ford pin out so I'll attach what I have, they do vary so check as well.
www.autotoys.com have the adaptor leads you SHOULD have used to connect your radio. I also attach the ISO DIN pin out to make sure although with a NEW deck it should have come with instructions (or as is so often the case 'Distructions' ;-)
Colours
MEM Green/Yellow
ACC Yellow/Black +
GND Black
RF White/Green + / RF Black/White -
LF Orange/Green + /LF Black/White -
RR Pink/Blue + /RR Green/Orange -
LR Pink Green + /LR Pink/Blue -
Pin# Wire Color Application
1 yellow 12 volt constant - memory, clock, battery
2 not used
3 red 12 volt ignition (switched)
4 orange dash lights (illumination)
5 not used
6 black radio chassis ground
7 blue power antenna
8 not used
SPEAKER PLUG
1 white left front positive
2 white/black left front negative
3 green left rear positive
4 green/black left rear negative
5 gray right front positive
6 gray/black right front negative
7 violet right rear positive
8 violet/black right rear negative
Standard text for instant expert installer,
Not all sections may be relevant, use what you need.
Check out the car is NOT the problem first though, had many a customer change the radio to no avail when it was a simple fault on the car.
You will need a test meter set to 20vdc or a 12v lamp or test probe.
I run this test when working on a car where a previous owner has ripped the connectors out of a used car and the new owner is in the same boat as you so it cover all the basics and should sort you out. So armed with your 12v probe or test meter, some paper, masking tape and a felt tip pen, here ya go!
Speaker wires. (non-amplified) these are tested with a AA battery across a pair of wires and you will here a 'pop' from the speaker,
These are normally twisted together in pairs (if you are lucky) and usually in a loom of their own before going of to the four corners of the car and are the same colour for each pair but one with a colour trace on, i.e. blue and blue/white, green and green/white.
Label it (e.g. left rear), continue until all four pairs are identified and labelled.
Earth one side of your meter or tester to a metal part of the car, probe each wire until you have a wire that is live all the time with the ignition OFF, label this ‘+30’.
Switch on ignition and redo test until you find another previously dead wire now live, this is ‘+15’.
Switch off ignition and switch on the side / park lights, repeat test until you find a third live, label this ‘lights’. Switch off the lights
You should now have two or three left. One will be earth, (usually black or brown); one could be to an amp and or electric ariel (usually blue or blue white) and one for phone mute if fitted. Clip tester to +30 and probe one of the remaining wires, if you have an electric ariel it will go up. Connect your DIN plug to the correct wires and jobs a good un’.
DIN connections are.
Speakers
Right rear -, right front -, left front -, left rear-,
Right rear +, Right front +, left front +, left rear +
Power block viewed from cable side
Phone mute (white),/ n/c, / ariel & amp (blue), /ignition (red)
N/c, / 12v live, (yellow or orange), / lights, (various colours),/ negative (black)
The third, usually top, block is for accessories such as cd changers
