Audio Systems: power to head unit/cd player, connector block, aa battery


Question
hi. about a week ago i installed my jvc touch-screen cd player in my dad's car by myself. it looks like a normal cd player. no dvd or big screen or anything. it seemed to work fine as i played it for about 5 minutes. i turn off the cd player so i could wrap black tape around all the wires. and then i try to play it again and it all of a sudden doesn't work. i connected and disconnected the wires several times, for about 4 hours. and there still seemed to be no power going through. but i tested out the cd player with a power supply/battery and it still worked fine. so i checked all the fuses and they were fine also. i brang the car to a friend who used to work i the car audio business and he couldn't find out what was wrong either. so can you tell me what you think is the problem? thank you.

Answer
I think the answer lies in the "after I wrapped black tape around the wires" bit. I would check my power source with a probe or meter at 20vdc and see if you have the required power, sounds like you may have blown something in the wrapping process.
Tip, to do an easy and clean connection with wire to wire we use either crimp on bullets (red) or a connector block, the type you buy in strips with a dozen connections, break it down for 8 speakers and the rest for power etc.
Below is the std test  so assuming you have the basic test probe or meter it should highlight the problem, I think you can skip the speaker part.
Peter
You will need a test meter set to 20vdc or a 12v lamp or test probe.

I run this test when working on a car where a previous owner has ripped the connectors out of a used car and the new owner is in the same boat as you so it cover all the basics and should sort you out. So armed with your 12v probe or test meter, some paper, masking tape and a felt tip pen, here ya go!

Speaker wires. (non-amplified) these are tested with a AA battery across a pair of wires and you will here a 'pop' from the speaker,

These are normally twisted together in pairs (if you are lucky) and usually in a loom of their own before going of to the four corners of the car and are the same colour for each pair but one with a colour trace on, i.e. blue and blue/white, green and green/white.
Label it (e.g. left rear), continue until all four pairs are identified and labelled.

Earth one side of your meter or tester to a metal part of the car, probe each wire until you have a wire that is live all the time with the ignition OFF, label this ‘+30’.
Switch on ignition and redo test until you find another previously dead wire now live, this is ‘+15’.
Switch off ignition and switch on the side / park lights, repeat test until you find a third live, label this ‘lights’. Switch off the lights
You should now have two or three left. One will be earth, (usually black or brown); one could be to an amp and or electric ariel (usually blue or blue white) and one for phone mute if fitted. Clip tester to +30 and probe one of the remaining wires, if you have an electric ariel it will go up. Connect your DIN plug to the correct wires and jobs a good un’.

DIN connections  are.
Speakers

Right rear -,  right front -,   left front -,  left rear-,
Right rear +, Right front +, left front +, left rear +

Power block viewed from cable side

Phone mute (white),/   n/c, /      ariel & amp (blue), /ignition (red)

N/c, / 12vlive, (yellow or orange), / lights, (various colours),/ negative (black)