QuestionJerry,
I have a '91 Sundance w/about as basic of a radio as you can have (not even a tape-deck)... when i got it, the two rear speakers didn't work... shortly thereafter, the left front one died... i replaced it and it worked fine for a little while, but would crackle loudly at times (like when rolling down the window or turning the steering wheel), so i figured the problem with it was in the wiring. just recently, the right front speaker died so i have no audio at all. i've tested that speaker and it's still good/not blown, so i'm thinking my problem is either in the head unit or the wiring to all of the speakers. is there anything in my head unit that would have led to systematic failure of my speakers like that, and if so, how would i check it/fix it?
also, do you happen to have a wiring diagram for the speakers or know where i can find one? i've already determined which wires are the 12V constant and switched and which go to the front speakers, but i don't know their polarity.
thanks.
Answer'91 deck? in two words .. replace it.
You can get a 100 watt AM/FM/XM (sattelite capable) head unit that plays CD, CD-R or CD-RW and MP3's for under $100.00.
We are talking about 70-256 songs PER cd (depending on the MP3 encoding rate).
The install gear to interface and not have to cut any factory wires is about 10.00.
The installation adaptor (so it looks good and is securely mounted) is about 10.00.
Peace of mind (knowing you have a new deck and warranty) is just about priceless.
Polarity is easy..
SPEAKER WIRE ID:
The easiest way will be to use a 9v battery to 'pop' the speakers (only long enough to see whether they go IN or OUT of their frames) to see which lead is positive.
Popper Battery Assembly:
Attach some wires to the battery of different lengths so it will not drain when not in use. This can be done with electrical tape and solder.
Now.. get into a position where you (or an assistant) can see either the back of [or the front of] the speaker being tested.
NOTES:
Tap the extended battery leads to the speaker (only for 1/4 sec or less) and watch the speaker.
During this test, a functioning speaker should move in one direction, then return to its idle position (after unhooking the popper battery).
Do not hold the popper battery on there too long as it will damage most speakers!!!
Just attach it long enough to see the movement.
If the tested speaker cone jumped OUT of the frame (towards interior of vehicle) the POSITIVE lead on the battery is indeed hooked to the positive for the speaker. Viola!
If the tested speaker moved IN to the frame (towards the exterior), the NEGATIVE battery wire is indeed hooked to the positive side of the speaker.
Simple, (and easy to get used to doing) if you follow the instructions :)
*If you cannot do these tasks as specified, you should consult a local professional to assist you.
