Question Am trying to instal a Amp & a Sub to my Chevy Avalanche 2004 and it has a Bose stereo system
whith a Dvd Player from where do i get the groud, power and the remote? Also where would i connet the RCA cables do I need do take out my stereo and cut some wiring I have the Line output convertor in the imput it has four wires white whith black,white and gray whith black, grey. In tha output it has the rca an a brown cable. Where do all those cables go to to the back of my car stereo which i have to cut some wires or they go some where els.
AnswerSounds like you are trying to do work that you are not qualified to do. I can send info but you will have to do it, and that means that any fire hazards are yours alone.
1st off, you do not interface to a system like the Bose.
For the end result, they are junk and are not worth the headache, effort and hazards involved.
Replace it or use it.
I am not saying this interface cannot BE done. I am saying that adding to a Bose mobile system is a waste of time (if doing it yourself) and a waste of money (if you have it done for you).
You will need a few things:
A 12v Test light.
Popper battery (9v) and some speaker wire.
Installation Kit.
Details on how to use them are as follows.
Additionally, you will need a dozen or more 'Bellcaps' crimp connectors to attach wires properly [and a crimper tool to fasten them]. ANYthing else, is not what I would use.
INSTALLATION KIT:
This will let your deck fit the dash opening correctly. And
generally, you should assemble this part 1st.
POWERING THE HEAD UNIT:
You will need a 12v test light (available at a parts store or radio shack, ect).
With that priceless tool, you should be able to determine 2 of the 3 main wires needed to power the head unit. Ground the clamp end of the test light to the cars' chassis and then probe wires with the other end.
1) MemoryWire
12v Constant (tested wire always has 12v no matter what position the key is in. This is the one you will use to provide station preset memory power to ther head unit (possibly a yellow deck wire).
2) PowerWire
12v Switched (That is, the tested wire only has 12v when the ignition is in the 'on' and 'acc' positions. This is the one that actually makes the deck power up. Possibly a red deck wire.
As to the ground:
You should simply run a short ground wire to the cars' chassis for circuit ground. Trying to find one in a factory harness is more trouble than it is worth for the novice (trust me). Likely a black deck wire [and it is
usualy long enough to make it to the chassis].
Now you have dealt with power, memory and ground.
SPEAKER WIRE ID and PHASE:
The easiest way will be to use a 9v battery to 'pop' the speakers (only long enough to see whether they go IN or OUT of their frames) to see which lead is positive.
Attach some wires to the battery of different lengths so it will not drain when not in use.
Now.. get into a position where you (or an assistant) can see either the back of [or the front of] the speaker being tested.
*Tap the extended battery leads to the speaker (for 1/4 sec or less) and watch the speaker.
During this test, a functioning speaker should move one way, then return to its idle position.
If the speaker cone jumped OUT of the frame (towards interior of vehicle)the POSITIVE lead on the battery is indeed hooked to the positive for the speaker. Viola!
If the speaker moved IN towards the interior, the NEGATIVE battery wire is indeed hooked to the positive side of the speaker.
Simple, if you follow the instructions :)
By the sound of your questions.. I would highly recommend that you take it to a local professional.
It would be sad to end up with a burned out carcass of an avalanche due ANYthing (much less possible owner errors). Go probing around too much and you may set off the airbags. Too many 'what ifs' to list.
