Questionhi hope u can help , im replacing my stereo there r no auto leads for it so im having to join the wires ,problem is i have te ground & power in correct order but im only getting pulses of power can u help its in a 94 bmw
AnswerAuto leads?.. humm ok
You will need a few things:
A 12v Test light.
Popper battery (9v) and some speaker wire.
Installation Kit.
Details on how to use them are as follows.
Additionally, you will need a dozen or more 'Bellcaps' crimp connectors to
attach wires properly [and a crimper tool to fasten them]. ANYthing else,
is not what I would use.
POWERING THE HEAD UNIT:
You will need a 12v test light (available at a parts store or radio shack,
ect).
With that priceless tool, you should be able to determine 2 of the 3 main
wires needed to power the head unit. Ground the clamp end of the test
light to the cars' chassis and then probe wires with the other end.
1) MemoryWire
12v Constant (tested wire always has 12v no matter what position the key
is in. This is the one you will use to provide station preset memory power
to ther head unit (possibly a yellow deck wire).
2) PowerWire
12v Switched (That is, the tested wire only has 12v when the ignition is
in the 'on' and 'acc' positions. This is the one that actually makes the
deck power up. Possibly a red deck wire.
As to the ground:
You should simply run a short ground wire to the cars' chassis for circuit
ground. Trying to find one in a factory harness is more trouble than it is
worth for the novice (trust me). Likely a black deck wire [and it is
usualy long enough to make it to the chassis].
Now you have dealt with power, memory and ground.
Wire up the speakers, and it should work.
If you want those wired correctly as well:
SPEAKER WIRE ID:
The easiest way will be to use a 9v battery to 'pop' the speakers (only long enough to see whether they go IN or OUT of their frames) to see which lead is positive.
Attach some wires to the battery of different lengths so it will not drain when not in use.
Now.. get into a position where you (or an assistant) can see either the back of [or the front of] the speaker being tested.
*Tap the extended battery leads to the speaker (for 1/4 sec or less) and watch the speaker. During this test, a functioning speaker should move one way, then return
to its idle position.
If the speaker cone jumped OUT of the frame (towards interior of vehicle)the POSITIVE lead on the battery is indeed hooked to the positive for the speaker. Viola!
If the speaker moved IN towards the interior, the NEGATIVE battery wire is indeed hooked to the positive side of the speaker.
Simple, if you follow the instructions :)
