QuestionMr Mael,
I really appreciate your help, but I failed to properly discribe the problem the first time. I purchased another GM factory radio (I think from Grand Am) for my Pontiac Montana when the original one shorted out. This new radio is exactly the same as the old one, with same wire inputs, but the only thing different is that the new one does not have the cassette player, just CD and radio. Do you think because the new radio came from a different brand of GM vehicle, or that it doesn't have the cassette player, that it causes the problems I described below? Would I have to still do some re-wiring, or could this be a factory "code" problem? (I didn't think it was a "code" problem, because the vehicle was still able to start.) Also, I forgot to mention the dials do light up, but the display doesn't. Just trying to think if there is more infomation to tell you to help you out. Again, I truly appreciate your time in helping me.
Mickey Thompson
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Followup To
Question -
The radio in my 2001 Pontiac Montana shorted out and does not work any more. I bought a similiar radio and tried to replace it, but the lighted display does not work and it only broadcasts stations when in the alternate power mode. When I start the vehicle up, it shuts off. Is there something I need to do when swapping out factory radios in my vehicle? Thanks!
Answer -
Hi, Mr Thompson.
This pro would say... "It just needs a rewire... that is about 45.00".
So, let me explain how to do that, now.
Will need:
A simple 12v Test light.
Popper battery (9v) and some speaker wire.
Installation Kit.
Details on how to use them will follow.
Additionally, you will need a dozen or more 'Bellcap' crimp connectors to attach wires properly [and a crimper tool to fasten them]. ANYthing else, is not what I would use.
INSTALLATION KIT:
Now, having a 2001, you can find an installation kit at walmart for about 10$. This will let your deck fit the dash opening correctly. And generally, you should assemble this part 1st.
POWERING THE HEAD UNIT:
You will need a 12v test light (available at a parts store or radio shack, ect).
With that priceless tool, you should be able to determine 2 of the 3 main wires needed to power the head unit. Ground the clamp end of the test light to the cars' chassis and then probe wires with the other end.
1) MemoryWire
12v Constant (tested wire always has 12v no matter what position the key is in. This is the one you will use to provide station preset memory power to the head unit (possibly a yellow deck wire).
2) PowerWire
12v Switched (That is, the tested wire only has 12v when the ignition is in the 'on' and 'acc' positions. This is the one that actually makes the deck power up (possibly a red deck wire).
As to the ground:
You should simply run a short ground wire to the cars' chassis for circuit ground. Trying to find one in a factory harness is more trouble than it is worth for the novice (trust me). Likely a black deck wire [and it is usualy long enough to make it to the chassis].
Now you have dealt with power, memory and ground. The station memory will work and it will not power off when it should be on...ect.
*NOTE:
The deck may have additional wire(s) for the backlighting (illumination) and other things like a cell phone ringer/mute. If so, attach the fused illumination wire to the ashtray light wire...ect, so that the backlighting will change when you change the dashlight dimmer.
SPEAKER WIRE ID:
The easiest way will be to use a 9v battery to 'pop' the speakers (only long enough to see whether they go IN or OUT of their frames) to see which lead is positive.
Attach some wires to the battery of different lengths so it will not drain when not in use.
Now.. get into a position where you (or an assistant) can see either the back of [or the front of] the speaker being tested.
*Tap the extended battery leads to the speaker (for 1/4 sec or less) and watch the speaker.
During this test, a functioning speaker should move one way, then return to its idle position.
If the speaker cone jumped OUT of the frame (towards interior of vehicle)the POSITIVE lead on the battery is indeed hooked to the positive for the speaker. Viola!
If the speaker moved IN towards the interior, the NEGATIVE battery wire is indeed hooked to the positive side of the speaker.
Simple, if you follow the instructions :)
*If you cannot do these tasks as specified, you should consult a local professional.
JM
Answerahh..
thank you for clearing that up.
"Do you think because the new radio came from a different brand of GM vehicle, or that it doesn't have the cassette player, that it causes the problems I described below?"
Yes, the harness connectors likely have a few different wire configurations that are possible. One vehicle may simply have more speakers than the other, or it could be a far different configuration.
You may be able to get this wired up by a pro, but I would not attempt it without one there in person.
Obviously, the fact that your original one shorted out would be more than enough to warrant a new deck.
However, I would recommend an aftermarket radio, and to have it custom wired (instead of using a harness adaptor) if you choose to replace the factory unit with an aftermarket one. This way you eliminate the possibility that the factory harness 'caused' the short.
I know this sounds like money, but if there is a problem in the factory wiring it will lead to more shorted decks.
I saw an ad at Walmart for am in-dash Pioneer radio/CD/CD-R player with two 6x9's and two 6" speakers for 99.00. :P
just a thought...
I hope this helps.
Jerry
