QuestionHello,
I have a 1968 Ford Torino GT with no sound system installed. On the top middle of the dash is a location for two 4" speakers. The kick panels have room for up to 7" speakers (the cutout hole is about 6-3/4"). I'm trying to design a system with mid-range speakers in the middle of the dash top, woofers in the kick panels and tweeters near the woofers aimed between driver and passenger heads (Component speakers woofer and tweeter in kick panels). I've seen 3-way component speakers with woofer, tweeter, midrange and their crossovers. Don't know if that's a better arrangement. A 10" Subwoofer will likely go in the trunk. I don't know if an 8" sub up front will sound as well as the 10" in the back (I would like a tight bass for classical, rock, and pop music). The component speakers and midranges are rated at 50w RMS each. I prefer a well staged/imaged sound system, with voice 350-5000Hz from the middle of the dash. I used to have an equilizer/200w amp combo with 4 speakers on an old system I had, and I liked the extra clarity and quality of sound with the amp included. The old system had terrible stagging though, the back 3-way speakers hogged most of the music. The 10" subwoofer for this system will be between 200-250 watts. I want the sub to enhance the music, not be the music. I read that 250w "can be heard a few cars over in traffic." That sounds plenty loud. I'll find a crossover with sub bass level control dial. The alternator will be upgraded to 105 amps. I have the battery installed in the trunk and will use 2ga or 4 ga wiring for the grounding, and battery to the amp rack.
1) With the two midranges next to each other on the dash, I still want some stereo effect from the side component speakers, would a 4-channel amp be better stereo sounding than a 2-channel amp?
2) I was thinking of a 4-channel 4x50w amp for the main speakers, and 250w amp for the subwoofer.
Does 15-20w from the head unit make the 4x50w amp overkill to add? I read that, subjectively, 5 watts is loud in a car, and 50 watts is needed to double that loudness. I'm trying to avoid clipping using the 4x50w amp for occasional loud music, but also for extra sound clarity at lower levels.
3) Crossover- The component speakers will have their included crossovers. Should I get a crossover with a band pass for the midrange speakers, and sub low pass?
4) Equilizer/amp combo- I used an equilizer on my old system and like the adjustments I could make to the music. I'm not sure whether the head unit on this new system will have special equilizer presets. Drawback to using this combo is that the amp isn't nearby the battery.
I'll stop here. Thanks for your help.
AnswerLet me just start by saying that if you plan to have an accurate system in that car you will need to cut some speaker holes in it (especially in the upper dooors for staging and tweeter placement). I have done a 68 torino from the ground up.
>1) With the two midranges next to each other on the dash, I still want some stereo effect from the side component speakers, would a 4-channel amp be better stereo sounding than a 2-channel amp?
What you might consider is using the dash holes for a center channel. That way you can control their output on the fly to suit you. A 4 channel amp will not let you do this easily due to you having the rear deak and kick panels wired to it.
>Does 15-20w from the head unit make the 4x50w amp overkill to add?
Not at all. and btw 5 watts LOUD in a car? Maby, if the engine is off and you have phenomenally efficient speakers. :)
> Crossover- The component speakers will have their included crossovers. Should I get a crossover with a band pass for the midrange speakers, and sub low pass?
For sure, active crossovers have much more flexibilty in system control. But slicing up the frequencies can be alot more tricky than it seems on the surface.
> Equilizer/amp combo- I used an equilizer on my old system and like the adjustments I could make to the music. I'm not sure whether the head unit on this new system will have special equilizer presets. Drawback to using this combo is that the amp isn't nearby the battery.
Until the head unit is selected and purchased.. I have no idea either.
The amps' location should not be a factor at all if it is wired correctly. Making a 4 gauge wire only 4" (from battery to amp) is only going to give you about .0014% more conductivity than putting it 14' away.
You might consider a 6 channel amp for this one.
subs on one channel, center spekaers on another (in mono as well) and that would leave 4 channels for each of the remaining sattelite speakers at each corner of the car.
in other words, more control throughout the systemm.
50watts x 6 should do it, no problem. 50 watts is plenty for well, designed sub.
If you already own the 4 channel amp, then go get another two channel one for the sub and dash speaker(s).
Sincerely,
Jerry Mael
