QuestionQUESTION: replaced BOTh bank 1 & 2 Pre-cat sensors . but no help. Any suggestions?
john
ANSWER: hello
I will need your Vin# for more diag. My repair manual is asking for Vin#. Also, did you replace all 4 sensor or only front?
thanks .
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Update: I replaced both bank 1 & 2, pre cat sensors, have not touched the post cat ones .... no errors there, is there a chance that they are bad and no codes thrown??? All the sensors are the same and I do believe one of my old ones is ok so I could start a swapout .. UGH!
Now .... With the original ECU I get no error codes! BUT .... With the used replacement ECU I get a P0134 & P0135 both bank 1 sensor 1 , O2 sensor, no activity & O2 heater malfunction , which sort of make sense I get both of them for that sensor if the one ECU is not reading it.
Now with BOTH ECU's I get this on my tester: "Catalyst monitor incomplete", "EGR monitor incomplete", and a few more incompletes for the O2 sensors, depending on which ECU I have plugged in. Seems like the original is my best shot, no erros anyway, but the incompletes are keeping it from passing E-Check.
My VIN# is: WAUFC84A3TN073175
I did find a cut O2 Sensor wire where the dealership goofball must have used a box cutter to take off a wire tie!! Soldered and shrink tubed it on Bank 2 sensor 1 and its seems perfect now! Can't seem to find a break in the Bank 1 sensor 1 at all, but its funny how the one ECU finds a fault in it and the other one doesn't! But again, no matter how much driving time I put on it with either ECU, my E-Check guys say its an "Incomplete reading and they cannot test it! Would you have the pinouts on my ECU???
Also replaced a lot of vacuum lines and manually opened and closed all the egr valves and othe components with my vac pump and they seem to be free. Would you have the vacuum routing diagram, or coolant routing diagram?
Lat note, No hot water flow! All lines , rad & heater core are open, control valve works fine with the cold to hot controls, took out valve and watched it actually open & close, its fine, "supposedly a new waterpump and new thermostat, no over heat issues, all flapper doors "seem" to be working fine, the lever moves anyway. I blew thru both ways and all seems to be quite open in the system. I doubt he could have put the thermostat in backwards, With the valve OPEN, and system bled of air, just the lower heater hose HOT and upper semi warm, like I'm getting no push from the waterpump!?!?!?!
I'm fixing all this for my friends 70 yr old Mother!!! Why did I ever say YES????!!! I dunno', my curse of being a nice guy! ( Just like you apparently! Thanks for ANY & EVERY thing!)
John in Ohio
Also, the radio won't come out of safe mode, seems like my lower set of buttons are faulty, did I read a blog where it might foul up the ECM's reaction to things??? Or am I just internet fuzzy from all my searches?? Can I pull a fuse to take it out of the loop? Or do you think its not related?
Answerhello
this of from my manual how to set readines codes:
Hope this will help in some way.
– Connect the scan tool.
– Switch the ignition on and start the vehicle.
– Idle the vehicle for 2-3 minutes. This executes the O2S Heater, Misfire, Secondary AIR, Fuel Trim, and Purge system monitors.
– Drive the vehicle at 45-55 mph for a continuous 7 minute period, avoid stopping. This executes the EVAP, O2S, Fuel Trim, and Misfire monitors.
– Accelerate the vehicle to an engine speed of 5000 RPM (with automatic transmission use the tip-tronic mode) lift off the throttle until the engine speed is around 1200 rpm. This executes the fuel cut off
– Accelerate the vehicle smoothly to 60-65 mph, cruise constantly for 5 min, this executes the Catalyst; O2S, Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge System monitors.
– Decelerate and idle the vehicle again for 3 minutes. This executes the Misfire, Secondary AIR, Fuel Trim, and Purge system monitors.
– Check the status of the readiness code.
NoteDepending on the scan tool used. The readiness code status may be displayed as complete, passed or OK.
– If any engine monitor fails the drive cycle test. Repeat the drive cycle test until all engine monitors have successfully run through and passed.
NoteWhen repeating the drive cycle operation for a failed EVAP monitor or thermostat-monitor, allow the engine to cool until the coolant temperature and the ambient air temperature are be between 10° C - 35° C with a difference between them no greater than 4° C is observed and repeat the drive cycle operation.
If the drive cycle operation fails again.
– Check the DTC memory for stored DTC's → Chapter.
Repair the vehicle if necessary.
– Repeat the drive cycle operation until all engine monitors have successfully run through and passed.
– Remove the scan tool and switch the ignition off.
– End of operation.
--------------------------------------------------
Also , do you know what is ECM coding #? looks like there are some ECM with EGR/ EVAP system and some with out it. Maybe your is coded with out egr system and thats why do not want to pass it on the test.
looks like AFC engine only has EGR sytem.
sorry, I can't find any coolant or vacuum diag.
good luck Greg
---------------------------------------------------
