Cadillac Repair: Cadillac starter relay location, Fresno forensic auto theft expert, san diego forensic auto theft expert


Question
Rob, I was told that the starter relay was the reason that my car would not start.  It will not crank on it's own and there is no power at all when I get into the car to start it in the am.  Once I jump it off, and it gets warm, it will start on it's own.  It did not start doing this til the weather got cold.  Now, someone else has told me that it could be the ignition module.  I need to know where these parts are so I can check them to see if they are bad.  I did try both of the things that you told me to and neither one made a difference.

Answer
Hello,

That is why I asked you what the reason was that you asked the question and now that you have told me the symptoms, I can get to the point as to how it applies to your specific car.

I had given you an answer for a very common Cadillac starting issue.

As for your symptom, it is my opinion you are getting lots of bad information. A starter relay (like an interrupt relay)does not go out in cold and then work great when the car warms up. A bad starter can draw enough amperage that it will not turn the engine over cold.

Your description sounds like a bad battery. I would recommend you get it tested.

You could also have a parasitic draw if the battery is good. A draw is easy to test for and means something is on draining the battery down overnight. Its pretty easy to check for a draw. Remove the positive battery terminal and install a test light between the battery cable and the post. If the light is on, you have a draw. Then it is a matter of removing fuses one at a time until the test light goes out. if the light doesn't go out, reinstall the fuse and go to the next. Check your owners manual to determine how many fuse boxes there are.

Go to the dome light fuse first. Pull it out. If the light goes out, something on that circuit is staying on or you have a short. Leave the dome fuse out if the light is still on. Don't reinstall until you find the problem circuit. If you have a separate courtesy light fuse, do the same as you would the dome light if the test light does not go out. The reason is that you have the door open when checking the fuses and the test light would be on opening the door and turning on the dome and courtesy lights.

When you find the circuit that turns off the test light get back to me.

Both the battery and a draw could very well be your problem.

See once the battery is jumped, when you drive the alternator is charging the battery. Car sits during work, time is less than when you park the car for the night. Also in colder weather, the battery if questionable loses charge the colder the weather at night. I really am suspecting a draw in the electrical system. Could be a bad lighter, a trunk light staying on that obviously you would not know, glove box light etc.

You can go to auto zone to check battery for free and to buy a cheap test light.

Keep me informed. Don't go changing relays, starters, coils or anything like that.

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