QuestionMy seville said check coolant level so i put coolant in it.
It started leaking antifreeze at an alarming rate, i saw it
when I parked the car, it was just leaking under the
drivers side. When i drove it, it started smoking from the
part where i pour the coolant in. Then the ac started
blowing only cold air when i had it on 90. It went back to
warm air but still was smoking by time i parked it at home.
I recently replaced the upper radiator hose which had
caused the same symptoms so i know its not that again. Do
you know whats wrong?
AnswerHello,
I don't think you are going to want to hear this, but chances are real good that you have done major damage to the engine by driving an overheated engine.
As for what is wrong, there are so many things to list in the state you refer to. Could be a cracked block, a head gasket, freeze plug and other things. The point is that you saw the coolant leaking "at an alarming rate" when parked and still continued to drive it.
The biggest problem here is education to consumers on engine problems with vehicles newer than the eighties and in some cases the 70's like that with Chevy Vegas.
Engines are not like the old chevy 283s and Ford 390s that were made of all cast iron components. These days engines are made of alluminum components sometimes attached to cast iron, which is not a good combination when there are different heat rates in these components. Years ago, you could over heat a 283 or a 390 and possibly do no damage. Now, if these engines get as warm as 230 degrees, you are in trouble.
I used to work at a Renault/Alliance dealer in the 80's. The money we made was incredible because customers commonly overheated that junk little engine. The repair was a head gasket and a piston liner kit almost every time.
It was common to replace head gaskets on the Olds diesels because the customer would over heat the engine. We made tons of money on these repairs and the leaner the engines ran due to emmissions, the more prone to overheating.
The Northstar is very suceptible to overheating and major damage.
The only thing you can do now is have the car towed to a service center where they can pressure test the cooling system to see where it is leaking. The origiginal laek you first observed may be moot to the damage you have done by driving the car in that condition.
I understand people don't have the money for repairs like they once did, but like this a $100 possible repair can cost $3,000.00 or more.
Many people understand only to turn the ignition and drive the car. That's fine, but when you see something obvious like the coolant leak, you need to know to have the vehicle towed.
I built one of the first bait cars for the Racine PD. The equipment we installed was worth far more than the 200,000 mile Cadillac we were given.
I explained that the vehicle had an oil pressure problem, but no one wanted to pay to fix the problem. Instead, the cop picked the car up and was warned. Oil light came on and what did he do? He put it to the floor blowing a rod out of the engine!!!
I replaced an engine on a cop's Suburban years ago. It never was equipped with a trailer package from the factory (Heavy duty radiator, oil cooler etc.). In fact it had 2:76 hwy gears in the differential and for towing it should have been 3:55,3:76, 4:11 or 4:56. He put a hitch on the truck and decided to pull a 32' trailer on the hottest day in July. All against my advice! He pushed it until the temperature guage peaked and the engine siezed! Then he had the nerve to call me and expect me to tow the truck, the trailer and warranty the engine because he did not listen to me!
That didn't happen! Of course he is the same cop that was mowing his lawn and cut off his big toe!
My point is, in your case, you must not have realized the problems you may have made for yourself. Yes, it is an expensive lesson to learn, but vehicles in many ways are not made as good as they once were.
I truly hope things turn out on the better side for you.
Rob
