QuestionQUESTION: Hello my name is Chandler I pulled the engine and transmission, rebuilt the transmission, reinstalled them, and now the security light blinks and there is no power to the injectors and will not start when cranking the engine, any idea?
ANSWER: Hi Chandler,
You have given me no details about the year, make, model of the vehicle you are referring to.
It also leads me to believe because you did not state that you changed the vehicle's computer or steering column or anything else that interacts with the so-called "anti-theft system", that you may have not reconnected an inportant component to this system.
You say you rebuilt the engine and transmission and it appears as though you did not put in a used engine, nothing should have changed.
Without even knowing the exact system in this vehicle because you did not specify, I think you need to look for something un-plugged or broken.
Rob
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I'm sorry the car is a 1995 Cadillac sedan daville
ANSWER: You have a FM VATS (Resistor (not computer) chip in the key.
I still think something is unplugged if it worked before the engine was pulled.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hay Rob the key is solid metal and the security light blinks constantly, the dealership told me to leave the key on for an hour and that would reset the the whole car but the security light is still blinking? THANX
AnswerHi Chandler,
Go to my website http://autotheftexpert.com
My contact info is there. Give me a call.
I evidently was in a rush when I answered your question because the FM should not been put in front of the VATS.
Something is not right here. My book says VATS and I have always known that from 1990 to at least 1999 on the Devilles, that was what was installed from the factory. The new body Deville which came out in 2000 was a transponder (chip in bow of key).
Just confirmed it once again (2 min ago)--Definately a VATS for a 1995 Deville per yet another referrence.
If that key does not have the obvious resistor, it is not the right key for the vehicle. When I say that, it may be mechanically cut to operate the lock, but without one of 14 different values, the computer can't see the key and the engine will not start.
Secondly, your answer sounds strange too because the blade of the VATS was longer to accomodate the contacts in the ignition lock for the resistor to align when inserted.
Another possibility is that someone bypassed the VATS and slapped in a regular ignition lock cylinder and key.
Now, it is possible the VATS was bypassed and the inline resistor came loose--hence, wiring problem.
At any rate, these coulmns were commonly defeated in less than thirty seconds on the left side of the steering column requiring no damage to be done to the ignition lock.
That is exactly why locksmiths working for an insurance company infer that the last key used in a reported stolen vehicle was operated by the insured. Locksmiths in many cases did not think these cars could be stolen without damage to the ignition lock even though the whole left side of the steering column was blown away with a screwdriver and access was gained to the steering column locking mechanisms.
The reason I am expounding on this issue is two-fold. After we get your anti-theft system problem taken care of, you need to install a HIDDEN starter kill, especially if you just stuck all that time and money into the car. They steal old cars all the time!!!
It seemed like everyone in the world thought they could fix these broken columns and unfortunately, there were too many repaired slip- shod.
Give me a call and I will see if I can help you. I am on central time. Call me after noon.
Rob
