QuestionDear Rob, My Ignition recently just broke. Details: Ignition began to "stick" as in it would be very difficult to turn the key. I turned it on successfully, but it stayed in the "turn" position. So my car continued to turn, even though it was already on, so i had to turn it off. After i turned it off, it wouldn't move. It would slide slightly and then it just got stiff. I was trying to turn it with a small force, then i heard a "click" sound and the ignition wasnt catching at all, as in i would be able to turn the key freely without any resistance back and forth. I purchased an ignition switch, being told that thats all i needed to replace. The guy didnt follow through, so now i am stuck here trying to find a mechanic, but i am hoping that perhaps with your advice and knowledge, that i can repair it myself. Thank you for your time, my name is adam and i hope you can help me!
AnswerHi Adam,
Yes, you have a common problem and I know it will happen to my Alante one day.
These columns were built a little backwards that the common Saginaw steering column where the mechanical steering column locking mechanisms were on the left side and the columns were easily defeated where the vehicle could be driven without a key.
This requires not a regular mechanic, but someone specialized in steering column rebuilding like myself.
I will try to talk you through this, but please realize it's been years since I did one of these monsters.
What you have is a broken rack. That is GM's name for it. A steering column rack and rod assembly.
Let's not confuse terminology here. Very important. There is the electrcal ignition switch and the mechanical key lock cylinder which I assume you purchased. The lock cylinder you purchased better have a gear on the back of it or it is the wrong one. The gear is known as a sector gear. As you see in my instructions, buy a 5/16 x 1 allen head bolt at a hardware store for reassembly.
You will need to rent a steering wheel puller and lock plate tool. Remove the horn pad. Look for screws underneath or it may just pull off.
Remove the steering wheel attaching nut. Remove screws for tele lever in center of shaft. Remove tele lever by unscrewing. Make sure you look at the end or the shift for a notch (mark) and make sure it lines up with the steering wheel mark. Remove the wheel with the puller. Remove the bushing(s)and reinstall later (look like heater hose). Remove lock plate with tool. It screws onto shaft and compresses the lock plate. Try to hooh the plastic retainer you will see by the little holes and pull evenly upward. It may break and you should get anew one at the time you get the rack aand rod from the dealer. Pay attention for reassembly how the horn contact goes through the lock plate and how the lock plate fits for reassembly. If you have a camera phone, take a pic. Insert a screwdriver into the "C" retainer and pop it out. Do NOT use a hammer because you can collapse the steering column. Remove the hush panel (10 mm head bolts). The hush panel keeps you from seeing what is under the dash. Remove any a/c venting that will be in your way.
Remove the lower dash under the column. Look at the bottom of the steering column shify bowl. (The last external piece closest to the dash. You should find a clip that hooks to the bowl. Remove that, it is your shift indicator (PRNDL). If you snap the cable off, the indicator will no longer work in the dash if so equipped.
Go under the dash and remove attaching bolts towards the front of the dash. (Either 13 mm or 15 mm head (2). Loosen the rear steering column attaching bolts (do not remove!
You will find a plastic shroud protecting the wiring on the bottom of the hold down bracket. Slide it downward and out. The wiring from the column should be free to at least work on it. Back to the steering column. Remove the 4 way flasher button. (Small phillips). Remove the three t/signal screws. Pull up t/signal switch. Take a small hook tool or needle nose on the key buzzer (located in column with flat protruding end by ignition lock cyl.) Pull straight up. Be careful not to loose the retaining spring (flat-will be left in key buzzer hole. Use #20 torx or allen wrench to remove ignition lock retaining screw. Gear from back of lock will probably fall off when you pull ignition lock out. Make sure you get that gear out and the key buzzer spring if you did not get it out already.
Go back under dash. On left side of steering column, you will see your high beam dimmer switch with two screws. One should have a nut and stud. Remove the dimmer switch. There should be a stud holding the ignition switch on the top of the steering column. Remove the stud and the switch. Do not disconect any wiring!
Remove the rod that goes into the ignition switch. Do not change the detent position. Just pull the rod out of the center of the switch.
Take your new rod/rack assembly and fish the toothed end up the steering column on the right side. You will see a large tooth that matches the large tooth on the ignition lock cylinder. The large tooth matches the deep tooth in the rack. You will understand when you see it. Line the rack up so the two mate and push the cylinder back into the housing. Slide the lock retaining screw back in, but don't tighten yet. Take the key and rotate the lock. Put your hand on the top of the column under the dash and make sure the rod moves back and forth. If it does, take the ignition switch and line up the center hole in it with the ignition switch. Remove the key while you are doing this. Once the rod is in the switch, line up and install the stud in the hole you took it out of. Tighten it up making sure you you have the other hole lined up. Now, put dimmer switch on stud. insert other screw into dimmer switch and ignition switch. Line up dimmer rod into center of dimmer. Put slight upward pressure on dimmer and tighen nut and screw.
Try ignition. Should work great! Try dimmer. If difficult to actuate, loosen and play with it until it works right.
Reinstall the plastic wiring shroud. tighten all the attaching bolts to the column.
Put shifter in nuetral. Reach under the column and reattach shift indicator to the middle of the N.
Tighten lock retainer screw. With key out, take needle nose and squeeze key buzzer and spring together. The bottom wave of spring fits under key buzzer. Line up with hole and use gentle pressure wiggling till it is seated. reinstall t/sig switch. Reinstall lock plate. Screw in a 5/16-18x1 allen head bolt (availabe at hardware store and tighten. (This hold titlt and tele shaft from falling out where you can tighten lock plate. Take needle nose and insert in shaft groove. (Only fits one way). Remove lock plate tool. Install plastic retainer. Install steering wheel. Tighten. Remove bolt you installed for lock plate.Insert tele shaft screwing it down until slightly tight. put tele lever on and attach screws. Push column and pull up. should have some drag. Turn lever right and column should lock. Turn left column should go up and down. Be careful. This piece is sharp. To tighten you may want to stick needle nose in two holes.Insert horn wire cap, push down and twist to right. attach horn and button the rest up. Total job should take someone not expeienced no more than a couple hours.
Good luck!
if you have problems contact me at http://www.autotheftexpert.com
