QuestionHi, Tom,
Thank you for your latest answer.
I’ve put some questions and comments below, between areas of the answer. I hope that you can help make these areas more clear and/or give further advice.
Thanks,
-- George
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HI GEORGE,THE GM PIG TAIL CONNECTOR LOOKS LIKE THIS WILL WORK FROM WHAT I CAN SEE AS LONG AS THE CONNECTOR FITS INSIDE THE SPEED SENSOR OK..THERE IS A LITLE CUT OUT ON THE PIG TAIL, YOU JUST HAVE TO MAKE SURE THIS FITS INSIDE THE SENSOR..
From George: As regards a cutout: Are you referring to the more-or-less oval-shaped area that extends outward away from the wires and to the sensor?
I KNOW YOU WANT TO GET THIS DONE BEFORE FRIDAY LAST CLASS,BUT IF YOU CAN NOT THIS IS VERY EASY TO DO. IF THE NEW CONNECTOR DOES NOT FIT GO TO THE JUNK YARD WITH YOUR OLD CONNECTOR AND JUST MATCH THEM UP..
From George: I’d been thinking that the old connector was so oily and ruined that it wouldn’t even be recognizable, but maybe it would be.
In any case, I’ve ordered one that MAY work, as I mentioned. I also have called some junkyards, to no avail. The one that may be most likely to have, I phoned, but couldn’t talk with anyone – sounded like they hung up on me, twice.
If I can get a new part that actually works, that will be okay, I think – and the one I ordered may arrive tomorrow. If not, an O’Reilly store will also have a similar item in by tomorrow that I can look at, along with an unused speed sensor that I have.
I’ve been told by someone at Summit Racing that the pictures shown for such parts may just be representations – not photos of the actual part. If the photos I’ve seen ARE accurate, though, then it looks to me as if the posts won’t fit properly, and I don’t want to actually place a connector on the unused sensor, because I want to return the sensor in new condition, since the on-vehicle sensor may be okay.
(Note: Surprisingly, a lot of confusion exists as to WHICH part is appropriate. This is the most important problem, I think, that I’ve experienced so far. By the way, I don’t know if I mentioned this, but the connector KIT – which also is hard to analyze as to what it contains – seems to be just a bunch of connectors, so that one of the ones in their will fit, and the others are perhaps discarded, though paid for.)
TAKE THE USED GOOD CONNECTOR AND SPICE THE WIRES TOGETHER WITH EITHER A BUTT CONNETOR OR SOLDER THEM AND THEN TAPE THEM TOGETHER,BUT BEFORE YOU SPLICE THE WIRES TOGETHER GET YOUR SELF SOME SHRINK SEALER [LOOKS LIKE A STRAW.][PURCHASE AT ANY PART STORE CALLED SHRINK TUBING FOR WIRES]SLIDE THIS SHRINK TUBE OVER THE WIRES BEFORE CONNECTING THEM TOGETHER.. AFTER THE WIRES ARE CONNECTED SLIDE THE SHRINK SEALER OVER THE CONNECTIONS AND HEAT THE TUBING UP WITH A LIGHTER. JUST ENOUGH TO SHRINK THE TUBE AROUND THE WIRES NO MORE... THIS WILL SHRINK THE WIRES TOGETHER MAKING IT WATER TIGHT. THERE IS ONLY 2 WIRES TO CONNECT
From George: I’ve looked online regarding connectors. I assume that I can buy and figure them out, plus be able to use the shrink sealer. I don’t know if the lab has soldering equipment, but I assume that I’ll be able to figure out how to connect the wires, especially with the teacher’s help.
I also read online where someone said to use a hair-dryer for the heating – which I hope and assume would work. Otherwise, I can bring long matches and/or a trigger-activated lighter – I forget what it’s called.
JUST MAKE SURE THAT THE YOU MATCH THE CONNECTOR UP WITH THE OLD CONNECTOR FOR THE CORRECT WIRE LOCATION IN THE PLUG..SIMPLE AS THAT.
From George: I assume you mean that I would match the replacement connector with what is on the vehicle now – but again, except for the fact that I could see its approximate size and that it had two terminals, I couldn’t see much of it from the photos I took.
The picture I sent shows what it pretty much looks like now. Maybe if I wipe if off, it will help me be able to see if it matches the connector I bring to the lab.
IF YOU RUN INTO ANY TROUBLE I WILL BE HERE WAITING TO HELP YOU OUT...ONCE AGAIN GOOD LUCK ,,,TOM...
From George: Thank you.
IF YOU NEED MORE INFORMATION PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO GET BACK TO ME. IF WE ARE ALL FINISHED WITH YOUR PROBLEM, PLEASE RATE MY ANSWER. I TRY TO KEEP A HI PROFILE WITH ALL EXPERTS. THANK YOU VERY MUCH,,,TOM
AnswerHI GEORGE,SOUNDS LIKE YOU ARE HAVING A LOT OF FUN WITH THIS CONNECTOR !!! SUMMIT RACING IS CORRECT BY WHAT THEY ARE SAYING THAT THE PICTURES MAY OR MAY NOT BE THE ACCURATE CONNECTOR..
I HAVE RUN INTO THIS MANY TIMES..THE BEST AND ONLY WAY TO BE 100% SURE IS BY LOOKING AT IT IN YOUR HAND AND MATCH IT UP TO THE SENSOR...YOU DO NOT HAVE TO PLUG IT INTO THE SENSOR TO SEE IF IT WILL WORK. JUST LOOK AT BOTH THE COONECTOR AND SENSOR AND SEE IF THEY WILL LINE UP..IF THEY LOOK GOOD YOU ARE ALL SET...A HAIR DRYER WILL NOT WORK ON SHRINK TUBING..NOT HOT ENOUGH. THEY MEAN A HEAT GUN THAT MECHANICS USE. I DID NOT THINK YOU WOULD HAVE THIS SO A LIGHTER IS JUST AS GOOD AS LONG AS YOU DO NOT BURN INTO IT..YOU WILL SEE THAT WHEN IT GETS HOT IT WILL SHRINKK. IT IS VERY EASY TO DO..ALSO DO NOT WORRY ABOUT SOLDER IF YOU CAN NOT GET IT..JUST USE THE CORRECT SIZE BUTT CONNECTOR,ELEC TAPE AND SHRINK TUBE..JUST JOIN THE WIRES TOGETHER AND CRIMP THEM..IT IS THAT EASY...THE ONLY TIME THAT YOU WOULD REALLY NEED TO SOLDER IS IF YOU ARE WORKING WITH A ANTI LOCK BRAKE HARNESS. THESE WIRES ARE SHIELDED FOR NO INTERFERENCE PROBLEMS. YOU ALSO MENTIONED THAT THERE IS A KIT OF CONNECTORS SO ONE MAY FIT..THEY PROBABLY DO THIS BECASUE THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS THAT THEY WILL FIT OTHER CARS BUT ONE WILL FIT YOUR CAR. THIS IS PROBABLY THE EASIEST WAY FROM THEM...RULE OF THUMB,, IF THIS PLUGS FITS AND THE CLIP LOCKS IT IN PLACE YOU HAVE A TOUCH DOWN OR HOMERUN !!!!LET ME KNOW HOW YOU MAKE OUT OR IF I DID NOT ANSWER YOUR QUESTION COMPLETE...GOOD LUCK TOM...
