Chevrolet Repair: 1991 Caprice Classic LTZ, distributor shaft, rear gears

Question
Orig owner of car. Followed all spec maint. However got hit in front and repaired by shop that did poor work. Since the repair the Bose radio stopped working. The car did have a odd circuit breaker malfunction and I thought it would burn the car! I looked in the fuse panel looking for what I suspected to be a blown fuse. This was within a month of purchase!? The body repair work and an odd rear power window motor (that the dealer didn't fix correctly) was told was the cause of the breaker getting hot and were also replaced under warranty. The car now has 93k and a repair shop messed up the intake gasket and I have a leak that nobody seems able to fix (3rd repair) and still leaks from the distributor shaft. My main wish is to fix the electrical system that again has mystified every mechanic who has serviced this car. The power locks, unlock and lock constantly or don't work along with the Bose system and power antenna? The battery and alternator have been replaced  3 times and the symptom is still there. Worried again about using the car with winter gone so I just replaced battery and alternator but noticed Immediately the new alternator within minutes of running on the car became very hot to the touch? So I had the computer checked and no error codes and the alternator charges but why so hot?? I worry about a fire or battery explosion. I need to drive it more now to save gas and have a small child who rides with me 3 1/2 hours each trip to visit his mom. My truck is a 3/4 ton crew with a 6.0 and 4.11 rear gears. So you understand in the mountains where we live this equals about 5 - 8 MPG. The caprice is more like 15 - 24 MPG. Besides a few quirky issues like the doors unlocking and locking and the oil leak I enjoy the highway ride from the beast and would love to get a few more yrs with her solid highway ride.  

Answer
Hi John,
One little quirk about that alternator is, they do seem to have a tendency to get pretty hot when working normally, so "Hot" may be normal. The only way to know is connect an amperage measuring device to the output of the alternator. Those clamp on amp probes work just fine, and will tell how much it is working.
Obviously immediately after starting the engine, there will be a short period of heavy charging as it replenishes what was used by the starter, but after a few minutes, I would expect it to drop to only about what is consumed by the ignition, and accessories being used.
Problem is, that will also include the window motors and door locks if they are constantly operating.
That could be caused by a stuck relay, or possibly a bad control switch in the door.
Could also possibly be that the body shop connected some wires wrong someplace. A close inspection of where they performed work may be in order.
You said the front end. I wonder if they needed to remove and replace the convenience center, which is like a fuse block/relay block under the hood.

Van