Chevrolet Repair: 03 Chev 1500 4.3 no start & vibration, power distribution unit, chev 1500


Question
03 Chevy 1500 light duty 2wd 4.3 AT AC PB PS AM/FM, 44K miles, hardly driven for last 2 yrs, no other options
 
Drove truck 28 days (after inheriting it), stopped waiting to turn left and moron plowed it at 60mph.  Pushed bed into R cab corner and damaged R side, tailgate, rear bumper, R leaf spring and shock.  Much deliberation with Allstate due to moron's lack of coverage, felt some issues were ignored at body shop.  Came back from repair shop, drove about 4 weeks, total of 900 miles.

During this time, I felt vibration at highway speeds, 55-80mph.  Replaced worn tires.  Problem went from irritating to aggravating.  Shop balanced again, tires round, wheels all close in same specs.  Vibration continued.  Replaced rims and move tires around, same aggravating vibration.  Rides worse than my off-road 4wd.  Drove about 100 miles, died at gas pump after putting 3rd tank of fuel in it.

Sequential troubleshooting: no fuel issues, starter and ignition system components (from switch to PDC to solenoid, etc) voltage specs ok, batt. voltage 13.6V (@ batt, splice to alt & underhood power distribution unit).  Found wiring connector for passenger seat air bag sensor had been damaged, apparently when shop put on cab corner.  Harness is now properly secured under passenger seat in correct location.  
This resolved the dead short in electrical system.  Was receiving feedback voltage at negative batt. terminal between 7 - 12 volts.
All wiring has been checked, from tail lamps to turn signals, including under dash for any kinks, breaks, scrapes, etc.  Continuity checks from PDC to ignition and starting systems ok.  All fuses and relays checked, resistance ok and all function properly.  Sensors, sending units, Body control modules, SRS sensors ok.  Friends that are GM driveability experts still scratching heads on this one.

I spent the last 15 yrs as an industrial mechanic, prior 12 as auto mechanic.  Single mom with 2 kids left no time for college, work experience has been my education.  Learning the OBDII system and its components.  

Scan shows "no codes" stored, DIC reads "SRS System Fault" following repair of damaged harness.

A - How do I reset the SRS system to delete this fault?  Can I use the Actron Scan Tool or do I need to reinstall the OEM radio & input any numerical data?
B - If no start condition continues after reset of SRS system, any ideas?  
C - Vibration issue - if recheck finds all components within specs, any ideas?  I can't perform any driveability tests until no start condition is resolved.


Answer
Hello Annie,
I have never had a question that is quite so in-depth.

Lets talk vibration.
If you had that rear spring damage, it is possible the axle tube is bent, or knocked loose. Have a 4 wheel alignment check. The rear wheels need to be parralell with each other.
Another possibility is a bent driveshaft, and the rear motormounts being knocked sideways, causing the "U"joint to vibrate.

I would try to erase all codes, but I honestly don't know on that one.

Now...the no-start.
You said no fuel issues....did you actually test the fuel pressure, and is it up to spec?
Injectors pulsing?

I would really be surprised if the SRS fault would keep it from running, but I haven't been there, so I'm not sure.

And I have no idea what you mean by a feedback voltage at the negative battery terminal. If you are getting a voltage reading between the neg batt terminal and, say the firewall, the frame, or the block, then there is a bad ground connection. The only voltage reading you should get from the negative terminal, should be between it and a powered connection.

There should be a Good ground wire from the battery to the block.
Then there should be a ground strap, or wire from the intake manifold to the firewall, probably on the rear of the passengers side of the manifold.
And there should be a good ground from the block, or body, to the frame.
There probably was a ground wire from the body to the frame down under the body, behind the right front wheel well. There was probably another at the rear corner of the cab to the frame. But feel free to add good clean tight grounds between any of those sections of the truck.
It is imperative that ALL of them be well grounded.

That, in itself, may solve most, if not all of your problems.

Van