QuestionI have 2 questions that will "stump the experts" - they are very annoying an frusrating
My vehicle is a 2000 Chevy 1500 4.8(?)L - the old 305 - --
Problem #1 - approx 1 yr ago the interior lights at the doors and kick panels stopped working - they work fine with the remote entry - fuses are fine - key concept here is that they work fine with the remote entry as well as the rheostat ----but simply opening the door the lights do not come on - Approx 1 month ago - as if by magic - they started working when opening the door - just like that - did nothing at all- they worked fine for approx 3 weeks - then last week they stopped again - now they work fine with the remote entry and with the rheostat - but not simply opening the door -------- any clues ---- no apparent loose wires (I have looked from door light into the dash) ------ if I have room here I will ask the second -
For a long time my low fuel light would come on erratically - even with nearly a full tank - sometimes the full gauge would "jump" to its level when the key was turned on - sometimes it would go sloooooooooooooowwwww - I watched this for months surmising that it could be a float problem - when I changed the fuel pump in my son's 1998 Chevy pick-up I learned what kind of float was incorporated in the newer fuel pumps - long story short -I changed only the float assembly - from GM- fuel auge works fine now - BUT - after changing the float assembly out - the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on - I disconnected the battery terminal, light stayed on; I had a mechanic check the code - found a general emission code - 400 or something - not specific - then had hij reset the codes - light went out - for 2 weeks - approx 600 miles - then light came back on -and is still presently on -------vehicle passed inspection (emissions) with flying colors in Dec 2004 - so it is not a gas cap or the usual suspects ----------- when removing the fuel pump - i "angled" the pump out of the tank under the truck so as to not have to remove electrical, emission, or fuel lines from the fuel pump - thus only having to remove the float assembly - using my head theere right? - and then reinstalled the fuel pump and the gas tank - checking all connections (all connections - I am thorough) and all is tight, not kinked, not oily, etc etc ---------- so now the fuel gauge works fine but the Service Engine Soon light comes on ---------------
As I said - these will stump the experts - but I don't want the experts to test for 10 hours to get me to the stage I am now at - I will appreciate any opinion you may have on this - and if I can give you any more details - please ask ------thank you very much
AnswerHi Ralph, Sounds like your doing good on testing things so I'll give you some more. The BCM could be your problem here so lets test the wiring. At the BCM...Here is the wiring at the purple connector. The BCM is under the dash on the driver side.
Connector Part Information · 12191375 · 16 Way F Micro-Pack 100 Series (PPL)
Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function
A1 DK BLU/WHT 149 Cargo Lamp Switch Input
A2 DK BLU/WHT 1495 Courtesy Lamp Switch Output
A3 BRN 1356 Flash to Pass Switch Signal
A4 GRY 705 Reference Voltage Feed - 5 Volt
A5 GRY 8 Instrument Panel Lamp Feed
A6 WHT 278 Photocell Signal
A7-B1 -- -- Not Used
B2 ORN 54 Door Jamb Switch Signal - Passenger
B2 LT GRN/BLK 394 Door Handle Switch Signal - (Uplevel)
B3 LT GRN 262 Door Key Lock Cylinder Switch Signal - Driver (Uplevel)
B4 TAN 126 Door Latch Switch Signal - LH Front
B5 ORN 192 Fog Lamp Switch Input
B6 PPL 328 Interior Lamp Defeat Switch Output
B7-B8 -- -- Not Used
Test for ground at terminals B2 (right door) and B4 (left door) when the door is open.These should ground when the door is open and have nothing when closed. You can just flip the latch with a screwdriver to test this. If this works correctly then the body module is the likely problem sence it controls the light relay and it works with the Fobb. I would send the picture of the connector and wiring schematics but this site won't allow that.
The check engine light code is most likely a P0440, large leak in evap system. After doing the level sensor you must have caused a leak in the system. Things to check.. The O ring at the sending unit (this is common). The vent hoses at the ends of the tank, these are very short. There should be one in the front of the tank with a 4 inch rubber hose connected to a small plastis check valve in the tank. This check valve can break very easy if not disconnected before lowering the tank. If you can blow air into the tank and smell for gas vapor, not a lot of pressure!!
With the test equipment I have this problem would be nothing to locate and repair. Doing it without is a different story.
Hope this helps Mark
