Chevrolet Repair: 95 Beretta over heating, radiator cap, correct heat


Question
---I did install the thermostat the proper way, and its full of coolant, one thing I didnt do is test the new thermostat, and its the proper heat range for the vehicle, the next thing I am going to do is try a different cap,I opened the resevior cap and let the engine run for a while, is that the proper way to bleed the system? Have you ever had a water pump, work off and on, the belt seems pretty tight. I am used to working on older vehicles,which the main things you had to deal with was the thermostat or water pump, and pressure was'nt such and issue. Thank you so much for your reply, please stick with me until I get this thing figured out----------------------
Followup To
Question -
What would cause the temperature gauge to rise all the way to Hot and then drop to 1/4 in 15 seconds, this happens when I usally drive it 1 mile, then off and on the temperature gauge is changing, it will start to climb like up to 3/4 hot and then finally work its way back down. I replaced the thermostat, new coolant. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated
Answer -
What mechanical work has been performed on the vehicle recently ?. As most problems that occur after a recent repair was made can be traced back to the area of where the repair was made.

Did you TEST your NEW thermostat BEFORE you installed it and is it the cORRECT heat range as per the manufacturers recommendation ?.

Just because a part is NEW does NOT guarantee that it WORKS correctly.

I am not tyrying to be insulting, But you did install the thermostat with the spring portion DOWN towards the engine correctly ?. You would be surprised at how many that I have found them installed upside down and aws told that that was the way I took it OUT.

Other possibilities are:

Excessive cooant chamber pressure.

faulty radiator cap.

Insufficient amount of coolant.

Electric (if applicable) cooling fan not coming ON soon enough.


Check the above possibilities and let me know.


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Answer
Get a metal can (coffee can) of water and heat the water to 195 degrees using a propane torch and a thermometer and drop the thermostat in and see if it opens. IF it does, It's working correctly.

As afr as the radiator cap, I think I have seen maybe a handful that were faulty in 25 + years.

Yes. Leaving the cap OFF is a proper way to purge the air from the system.

Don't forget to put the heater system set to ON.

When the engine reaches normal operating temp, Raise and HOLD the idle speed at about 1500 and as the anti-freeze goes down, Add more anti-freeze. Once it stays FULL, Put the cap back ON and let the engine return to idle speed. This will insure that all of the air is purged.


Let me know, I won't abandon you until it's FIXED as long as you DO what I tell you to do.


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