QuestionQUESTION: 2004 Chrysler Sebring GTC, 2.7L won't crank.
New battery, Starter and Solenoid are both good, New Ignition Switch and Crankshaft Position Sensor, ASD relay and Starter Relay both good.
There is power shown going to the starter.
ANSWER: Hi Darren,
Check fuse #8 in the power box in the engine compartment.
Have a helper try to start it while you check the starter motor relay in the power box (it is the middle one of three relays in the front of the box). Touch/listen for the relay to click when the helper tries the 'start'.
Also, try moving the shift knob a bit off the detent position (both sides) of both P on N to test that safety interlock is not the problem.
Let me know if that click happens or not and we'll go from there. If it doesn't click, then try borrowing the transmission control relay next to it to see if that clicks.
Roland
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QUESTION: All the fuses and relays are good. Likewise, I have wiggled the shifter in regards to the neutral safety switch.
ANSWER: Hi Darren,
I assume that the starter motor relay clicked, correct?
If that is so, then either the brown wire that connects from the middle pin of the starter motor relay socket to the starter motor solenoid switch is "open" somewhere along its path (check that for continuity with an ohmmeter), or if you verify with a voltmeter that you are indeed getting 12v at the solenoid switch of the starter motor when the relay clicks, but you don't get a loud click from the solenoid switch, then the solenoid switch is faulty.
You can check the solenoid switch by jumping 12v directly to it where the brown wire comes in.
Roland
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QUESTION: I bench tested the starter and solenoid..... no signal from the brown wire..... where is the other end of the brown (signal wire) suppose to attach to next.... does it go to the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, or the distribution box?....... I can't find a wire schematic for this car.
no power to fuse 24 or 25 in the distrubtion box in te engine compartment.
AnswerI assume the starter relay is clicking. Tell me if otherwise.
The brown wire is at the middle pin of the starter motor relay's socket (and is possibly labeled as pin 10 of that socket). It goes out of the box and goes to a nearby light gray multi-wire disconnect (10 wires) at pin 5, that is mounted together with a black 14-wire disconnect, side-by-side very near to the speed control servo plug, all on the left side of the engine compartment. So go to that light gray disconnect and check for voltage or not on both sides of that disconnect pin 5 when the start is tried. That way you will know whether the brown wire is broken between that disconnect at the starter solenoid or between that disconnect and the pin 10 of the starter motor relay in the power distribution box. Then follow the brown wire, looking for damage/disconnect at either end.
The ignition switch and the neutral safety switch are what cause the relay to close (click) so those are OK. The relay's closing is what sends current from fuse #8 out on the brown wire that then goes to the start motor solenoid as I described above.
The fuses 24 and 25 only show power when the automatic shutdown relay is energized and that would be when you are successfully cranking over the engine or have the engine running.
