Chrysler Repair: 03 3.0L: no start

Question
QUESTION: DID AN OHMS CHECK ON PIN 1 AND 2 OF DISTRIBUTOR AND GOT A READING OF 0.00 OHMS.
DOES THIS MEAN THAT THE COIL IS BAD ON MY 2002 CHRYSLER SEBRING
3.0 LITER V6?
ACCORDING TO MANUAL IT SHOULD READ 0.56 TO 0.68 OHMS.

NOTE: I PURCHASED A NEW DISTRIBUTOR AND IT READS 0.00 OHMS ALSO.
I USED THE 20K POSITION.

ANSWER: Hi Eddie,
No, you should use the lowest range setting of your meter, like 200 ohms.
Then read what the resistance is between the two probe tips themselves, then place them on the distributor and see if the reading increases by 0.56 to 0.68 ohms. You need to use the lowest  full scale reading that you have in order to see very low resistances.
What is your problem?
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I did as you suggested and it reads 00.2 to 00.3 on the probe tips and
01.0 on pin 1 and 2. Is this a good reading?

Problem, the engine cranks but won't start.  I have replaced plugs,wires,
distributor cap,rotor, and fuel pump relays. Pulled one of the spark plugs and it was wet with gasoline.

I must assume that the it is not getting spark or the spark is to weak to ignite the fuel.

Any suggestion on what the problem could be?

Thank you in advance for help.

ANSWER: Hi Eddie,
The difference between 1.0 and .2 or .3, is 0.7 or 0.8 which is just right. So there is no problem with the primary winding of the spark coil. Here is my suggestion:
Use the ignition key to get a fault code readout: Turn it "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window to notice the mileage to disappear and be replaced by 4-digit numbers preceded by a P. Tell me the numbers and well go from there.
Thanks for the rating and nomination.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: OK,I did the on-off-on-off-on ''nothing''. I did a scan with a tool from Auto Zone. No codes where present.

Today when I cranked the engine it tried to start.

Answer
Hi Eddie,
No start with no codes is a challenge from a distance to diagnose. You could remove one spark plug cap and install one of the old spark plugs in that cap. Then hold the threads of the plug in contact with the cylinder head and have a helper crank it over while you watch to verify that you are getting spark on the plug. (Or you could remove one of the new plugs entirely and with its spark cap still attached do the same thing).
The other possibility is that you have a too lean mixture due to an exhaust gas recirculation valve that is stuck slightly open instead of closed due to the build-up of crud on the valve stem. Notice the small diameter exhaust pipe that branches off the front exhaust manifold and is routed across the front of the engine. That pipe runs to the egr valve. Once you find the egr valve notice that it has a round top with a vacuum hose attacted to it. The valve body is attached to the intake manifold. between the body and round top there is a flange area inside of which is 'hidden' the valve stem, a rod with a slot that goes around it. You can move the stem back and forth with the tip of a screwdriver inserted in the slot. Do that, and then also spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body and do the back and forth of the stem again making sure the internal spring-action is closing the stem of the valve to a dead stop. Then try and start the engine.
Is there a particular history of this problem before you started to replace parts?
Please read the PS below and respond to it.
Thanks,
Roland