QuestionQUESTION: i have a 95 chrysler new yorker no spark drove it home shut it off and it wouldnt start and it has no spark replaced cam position sensor checked the fuses for the ignition, also checked fuel pump somebody suggested that, before it quit ,it run kind of rough almost like it was missing ,but ran good when it warmed up, what should i do ?
ANSWER: Hi Bruce,
Have you tried for fault codes using the ignition switch? Turn it "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remain 'on', to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process to be sure of an accurate set of flash counts. Then tell me the counts in order of appearance and we'll go from there.
Please "rate" my answer (see PS below).
Thanks,
Roland
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QUESTION: i just tried that and it looks like 3-10 i tried it a couple of times ,what does this mean? thankyou much
ANSWER: Try it again, Bruce. The 10 is actually 5 pause 5 which is the code 55 which means 'end of code readout. Now the 3 has to be either 1 followed by 2, or 2 followed by 1. The 12 means the battery was diconnected recently (is that the case?) and the 21 means and oxygen sensor is not working.
Neither of those would explain a 'no spark' so if that is truly what we have going on there we need to figure out how you can have no spark without there being a fault code. You are certain that there is no spark, correct?
Do you hear the fuel pump run from inside the tank when you turn the key to the 'run' position? It should do that for a second or so. Then it will run again when you try the starter but you might not be able to hear that over the noise from the engine/starter cranking over.
There is a 2-wire plug at the rear of the alternator, that has three sockets of which only 2 are in use. They are arranged in a "T" and the left side of the cross-piece of the "T" is attached to the dark green/orange wire. Notice whether it mimics the hum of the waterpump by showing 12v for a second or so when you turn the key to run. Then try the starter and see whether the 12v comes 'on' and stays on for as long as you are cranking it over. Let me know what you find about that which would also tell us whether the 'no spark' is because the 12v is not there (and that same wire is at the primary winding of the spark coil so if no 12v on the dark green/orange wire there will be likewise no sparking from the coil).
The other reason for no spark would be that the other engine rotation sensor on the crankshaft is not working well and that would explain why the 12v is not appearing on the dark green/orange wire. That sensor, if faulty, should cause an 11 code, which you would see as 1 flash, pause, 1 flash of the check engine light.
So I'll await your response to these questions/tests.
Please 'rate' my answer.
Thanks,
Roland
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QUESTION: i just tried it again and i think i made a mistake 1-2 5-5 this might be right
AnswerNonetheless, do check out the fuel pump sound and the voltage on the dark green/orange wire, and verify that you still don't have any spark.
You said that you checked the fuses, but just in case check fuse B (20 amp in the box under the hood) and fuses 18 and 20 in the box behind the left end-cap of the dash, all of which power the ignition circuit.
Thanks for the rating and nomination.
