Chrysler Repair: #8 fuse blowing intermittantly: Sebring/Cirrus 96-on, amp fuses, amp fuse

Question
I see there are many inquiries about #8fuse blowing. I have a 2004 sebring touring sedan hardtop that intermittently blows the #8 fuse located in the underhood PDC (left front inner fender area) The problem I have is that it may go two weeks before fuse blows. Car gets towed into shop where I replace fuse and car starts and runs fine. Has the root cause for this ever been found? I wish the short was constant then I could pinpoint much easier, but it is not. PS you were dead on when in one of your replys you called this #8 fuse a "workhorse" Your reply would be appreciated. Thank You, Bob

Answer
Hi Bob,
Let me list for you all the fuses/circuits that draw on fuse #8 in the '00-on models. The list is similar for '96-'00 and the Cirrus/Status also share this problem. Then you might be able to  measure the resistance or current draw through each of those fuses/circuits to find which one(s) are pulling the most current and check them out.
The direct draw on the fuse is the fuel pump relay which represents the current to operate the fuel pump and would be activated when you turn the key to the 'run' position, so if it blows before trying the starter then that would be suspicious about the pump which you would expect to hear run for about a second when the key is turned to 'run'; also the starter motor relay would draw on that fuse both to activate that relay and then when activated to send current to the starter solenoid switch for the purpose of closing that switch, so if it blows when you move the key to 'start' that would make the starter solenoid switch suspicious.
The #8 fuse also sends current to other section of the ignition switch which then in the run and/or start positions sends power to three 10 amp fuses, a 20 amp fuse, and the body computer. So you could have a situation where the total current through the 4 fuses could be under 10 amps through each which then when you add current for the fuel pump and/or starter solenoid and body computer (the control functions of it) total to more than 20 amps which is the limit for fuse #8.
The three 10 amp fuses and one 20 amp fuse are in the junction box behind the left end-cap of the dash, fuses:
14 which powers the radio (run only);
15 which powers multifunction switch on the steering colum to power the front wiper relay, the rear window defogger relay, and the body control module (all those only to activate the relays, not to power the devices and only in run);
17 air bag control module (both run and start);
23 (the 20 amp fuse) which powers the activation coils of about 6 other relays (but not their output currents) and the pcm, all in both run and start.
So it could be the fuel pump or the starter solenoid switch and the radio (particularly if you have changed to a higher power radio) would be most suspect. So be sure the radio is off when you start the car, and then notice if the fuel pump fails to hum when you turn the key to run BEFORE trying the start position which would implicate the pump. If the starter fails to click into action and you find the fuse blown then either the brown wire from the starter relay to the solenoid switch is shorting to ground of the solenoid switch on the starter is defective.
If a 30 amp fuse would fit in the #8 fuse socket in the pdc that might solve this also.
Please let me know what you make of this and how you resolve it.
Please 'rate' my answer (see below)
Roland