QuestionQUESTION: Roland, for some reason I can't respond directly to your latest post, so I'm again starting a new email chain here.
Here was your last answer and I have put my responses in line with your text:
Answer: Hi Doug,
Fuse 18 should be 11.6 and 11.6 with the ignition on. Were the wipers on or off when did the reading? THE WIPERS ARE TURNED OFF. HOWEVER, WANT YOU TO KNOW THAT WHEN THE WIPERS ARE TUNRED ON, THEY RUN VERY SLOWLY AND CANNOT MAKE IT ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD EVEN WHEN WINDSHIELD IS WET. WHEN WIPERS ARE IN OFF POSITION, VOLTAGES MEASURED AT THE FUSE SOCKETS ARE STILL 11.6 AND 2.5. If off, then the fuse may be 'resistive' but not blown e.g a bad connection of the fuse to the socket. SHOULD I REPLACE THE 20 AMP FUSE? BUT I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY THE VOLTAGES MEASURED ARE AFFECTED BY THE FUSE AT ALL SINCE IT'S COMPLETELY REMOVED FROM THE SOCKETS. If on, then the wiper circuit is drawing too much current, for a reason to be determined. N/A, SINCE WIPERS ARE OFF.
Fuse 14 appears to be blown or not making good contact in its socket I CHECKED THE FUSE WITH THE OHM METER AND IT HAS CONTINUITY. I SPRAYED THE SOCKETS WITH ELECTRONIC CLEANER. BUT WHY WOULD THE FUSE EFFECT THE VOLTAGE READINGS AT THE SOCKETS SINCE THE FUSE IS COMPLETELY REMOVED?
Fuse 8 same as fuse 14 SAME AS 14
Fuse 5 depends upon have a good fuse 14 situation, so fix that first.
Roland
Sorry to be difficult, Roland, and looking forward to your reply. I really do appreciate the help. It's getting dark here, and I'm wondering whether you will be online tomorrow as well?
Thanks,
Doug
ANSWER: Thanks Doug,
As this is a 'new' question, let me provide the original problem we are trying to deal with:
"Hi Roland. You helped me with an electrical problem a few weeks ago which turned out to be fuse #8 and 16 not contacting properly and therefore the body computer was not function correctly. A new set of problems has cropped up which may again be related to the body computer. Here are the symptoms: 1) lights on the heater/AC buttons panel do not illuminate, 2)light on gear shift indicator does not illuminate, 3) when the driver door is opened normally the electronic gauges turn on, but this doe not happen now, 4) when the headlights are turned on the electronic gauges should dim, but they do not dim now, 5) the doors on the headlights seem to close much more slowly, and 6) the windshield wipers are anemic and will stop mid stroke."
After a couple of exchanges:
I asked that you check both sides of the fuse sockets (18,14,8,5) to verify that the upstream side was getting voltage from the battery or the ignition switch when 'on", as the case may be. And then I asked for the reading on the other side of the fuse at the socket clip metal itself to be sure that the fuse was making good contact on both sides of the socket. Because of age there could well be corrosion of the socket. That is why I want the readings with the fuses in their sockets.
The wiper fuse (18) downstream side is getting about 2.5 volts I suspect from power that comes out of the security alarm module to which clip also is connected and which has power also going to it from other sources. So I suspect that the wiper fuse is blown or not making good contacts in its clips. It should read 12 on both sides of the fuse, at socket clips (not just fuse metal tip alone).
On 14, again I want the readings on both sides of the fuse socket on the clips themselves, and I want all the fuses to be in their sockets. How about a new set of measurements on all four fuses?
I will be here on Sunday.
Roland
PS If you would be so kind as to 'rate' my answer and where you see the question about a nomination of me to be 'volunteer of the month' consider giving a 'yes' response; that would be very much appreciated.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
1990 Chrysler Imperial
QUESTION: HI Roland. I've attached a .jpg of the fuse panel so you can see what I'm seeing.
In the photo you'll see that fuse 18 has been removed. The two shiny pieces of metal that the fuse was plugged in to are the clips you're referring to, right?
By the way, the upper clip for fuse 18 looks corroded and dodgy. I can spray it again with contact cleaner but it may need some physical abrasion. I could try fine grit sandpaper. What do you think?
What I don't get is how a fuse can be in it's socket and I can actually measure voltages at the clips, which I think is what you're asking me to do. I can pull a fuse partially out but no way can I get the volt meter probe in to where it contacts a fuse prong while it is engaged with a clip. What am I missing?
You've mentioned several times that one or more fuses may be blown. Could a fuse be blown and still show good continuity with an ohm meeter? Should I just get new fuses at this point?
Roland, I don't know if it's permissible but it might make sense to talk by phone if that's OK with you. My cell # is (831) 915-9563.
Thanks!
Doug
ANSWER: Hi Doug,
I see your problem in testing for actual voltage to the fuse contacts when the fuse in. I wonder if the fuse box itself might be easy to loosen up so that you could go to the back side and test at the wires connected to the fuse clips? The alternative is to go to one of the components at the far ends of the wires in question but that also can involve a good deal of dismantling. Because of the history you have had with poor fuse contacts to fuse clips I think it is important to verify that we so have voltage going out from all four fuses.
The outgoing wire for fuse 18 is dark blue and it goes to the windshield wiper motor, multifunction switch on the column, and security alarm module. The fuse 14 wire is pink/black and goes to the headlamp switch which is easy to access. Fuse 8 is a dark blue stripe wire that goes to many places on the instrument cluster. Fuse 5 is orange and also goes to the headlamp switch.
So I will leave it to you to decide whether to remove the fuse box in toto or go to the downstream location to ascertain whether you have power or not.
I am working on an electronics project today that is challenging so I am trying to get that done and not take on too many other person-to-person communications other than by internet. I am at 650-494-0287 if you would like to give me a call to answer a question or so.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Roland, just wanted to let you know that it turned out to be a simultaneous failure of the headlight switch and the wiper motor.
Thanks again for your help and I hoe your electronics project was successful.
I'm not sure how to give you my rating for your service but will try to.
Happy holidays,
Doug
AnswerHi Doug,
Thanks for sharing how those issues were resolved. Good work.
If you look down below this answer you will see the invitation to 'rate' my answer and to decide whether to say 'yes' to a nomination for me to be 'volunteer of the month' for December. If you would be so kind as to do that I would be most appreciative. You can also go back to earlier answers in this exchange and do likewise if you wish to.
Happy holidays to you as well.
Roland
