QuestionQUESTION: Roland,
The rear power lift gate on our Grand Caravan ('01, 3.8L w/ AWD) has stopped working. Using the remote, interior console switch, or exterior handle all cause the power open cycle to initiate (remote & console switch cause lights flash and beeper peeps) and the power latch releases the door a small amount, but the power lift fails to open it further. If I place my ear on the van's exterior next to the power lift motor, I can feel and hear some activity (like a solenoid engaging). The power close feature does not work at all, only the lights flash when the remote is used to prompt it to close. You have offered to send wiring diagram to other posts w/ similar problem, is that the next step or do you have other items I should check?
ANSWER: Hi Joe,
It may be that there is binding or frictional resistance to movement in the mechanism. The manual suggests checking the prop rods and hinges for free movement. It also recommends use of a lubricant (Mopar MP-50, but no description of what type of lubricant that is so ask at a dealer for its constituents) on the chrome prop rod shafts and liftgate hinges. If you think the lift gate is mechanically out of alignment then there is an instruction in the body section for modifying that (2 pages).
The electrical controls would sound to be operational from what you say. The body diagnoatic manual does have a trouble shoot for the motor assembly, the full open switch, the latch assembly (which doesn't seem to be a problem). I don't have a copy of that manual unfortunately.
The '01 manual I have does have 17 pages about the liftgate assemblies, and 4 pages of wiring diagrams. I can copy those and postal mail them to you at a cost of 10 cents per side plus postage that would be and addition 84 cents. You could send me back postal stamps after you get them to cover these costs. If you can identify the reason for the problem I can send only the page or so for dealing with it at no cost. I also have the '04 manual on a CD and can copy a few pages from that and attach those to an email. Let me know how I can be of help and if you want to tell me your postal address or email address then ask a NEW question and check the box to make it private.
Roland
PS Please rate my answer and consider a 'yes' to the question about a nomination of me to be 'volunteer of the month'. Thank you
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QUESTION: There are no obvious issues with hatch alignment (accident free vehicle) , hinges or the prop rods (i.e, gas struts). The prop rods were both replaced last winter when they got week in below freezing temps and could hold the hatch up. But the power lift was strong and easily raised the hatch, but could hold it open with bad struts. It just seems like the power hatch releases, but the power lift motor doesn't kick in to raise the hatch up. Definitely something electrical related to the power lift motor because it just stopped working one day. Using a small flashlight to inspect the lift gear behind its rubber cover opening shows no evidence of dried grease or shavings from excessive friction. I you can send the manual pages and wiring diagram that would be extremely helpful. I'll send a private question w/ address info. One final question though, looking at other q &a's on this subject am I correct that the 40A fuse #32 is the applicable one for powering the lift gate motor? And if so, what else would it power, the power latch?
AnswerHi Joe,
The 32 fuse does it all, so it appears that would not be the problem. The lift gate system is rather complex for operational and safety purposes. The motor unit, for example, also has a hall effect sensor, a full open switch, an engage/disengage switch, and a clutch control for the drive gear, thus a total of 10 wires on its plug. Unfortunately without the body diagnostic manual which details how to troubleshoot it I would not know what to suggest you do first.
The main manual only offers the suggestion that you disconnect/reconnect the battery cables (just the - post would do the trick) waiting perhaps a minute in between for any memories/capacitors to discharge. That would reset the module. If that doesn't do it, then try a fault code readout* to see if there would be a clue there as to what is wrong. Get the fault code at any garage or at a nationwide parts store (such as Autozone, often for free) and ask what it suggests needs to be done, and for what cost. If it involves changing out a part then the main manual I have would show how to do that. If there is no fault code on a simple readout then a troubleshoot that involves the body diagnostic manual and a diagnostic readout box at a dealer will probably be needed. The CD's I have from '04-'06 may give the details on a fault code remediation if there is a code.
Roland
PS Thanks for rating and nomination, you can do it again if you like.
*Use the ignition key to get a readout (but likely not for the body issues, just engine issues)
by turning it 'on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer to see if the mileage is replaced by a code of the word donE (means no codes stored).
