QuestionQUESTION: Hi there Roland,
You sound like a very helpful chap and I read your answer with interest online about you helping the guy with the Chrysler Voyager by either trying the front doors with the key, or secondly, unplugging fuse #28 for 30 minutes.
Your answer appears the best I can find online relating to this, unfortunately my fuse and relay box under the bonnet seems to be different somewhat.
Firstly, there are no numbers. Just a description of what each one does. I was rather hoping you could tell me which fuse is #28. Is it the memory fuse? When I plug it out, the headlights immediately blink on and off, then there is nothing. Also, with this memory fuse out, I cannot remote lock or unlock the car, and when I turn the ignition, the 'Alarm Set' lamp does not light up (but neither can I start the car).
After 30 minutes, I replace the fuse. But all that happens is that the 'Alarm Set' "resets" if you like, and flashes/beeps about a dozen times, then stays on. If I do this a subsequent time, it doesn't flash or beep, it just blinks off and then on once. Nothing at all from the engine. If I either (1) disconnect the battery, or (2) remove this memory fuse, it resets the 'Alarm Set' system (to blink/beep again a few times)
Going back to the first time I experienced this problem, the car would start, but the 'Alarm Set' lamp would come on and the engine would die. This happened a couple of times, exactly as you said in your answer to the other guy as a matter of fact, but now it never starts, of course.
Can you identify which fuse it is I should be pulling out, or anything else I can do to fix it? (preferably an alternative solution) I only have the key, I don't have the fob anymore!!
Thank you SO much for any reply or assistance and I would be happy to vote you up a few times!!
Kris
ANSWER: Hi Kris,
The #28 fuse is the one in the very rear of the box and that is doubtless the one you have been removing/replacing.
Likely it is the case that the wires from the key cylinder switch or power door lock switch on both front doors has become fatigued and 'opened'. Other than searching through the flex point of the harness at both hinge areas, finding the wires, and reconnecting the two halves, the other approach would be to fake the body computer with a specific resistors touched to ground from one of the two wires found at the pins at the body control module to which the wires connect. Once you have done that you will have disarmed the theft system.
The trick in the future is then to NEVER use the power door lock buttons, the door key locks, or the remote (which you don't have) as you leave the vehicle so as to avoid arming the system once again. There is no way to easily detach the system as it is a part of the body computer.
The wires in question are from the left side a white/dark green wire to pin 45 of the plug that has pins 41 to 80, and a white/light green to pin 55 of the same plug from the right door. The body computer is under the dash, attached to the back side of the fuse box located on the left side accessible after you remove the under panel and the knee blocker of the dash.
The plugs are on the lower end of the body computer so you don't have to remove it. Just look carefully at the numbering on the two plugs.
To simulate the locking function you would take a 1,500 ohm resistor and touch one end to pin 45 (or 55) and then the other end to a ground (any shiny metal chassis part nearby or to the black/light green wire on pin 10 or 14 of the other plug at the bcm). Of course you want to not remove the plugs from the bcm when you do this action. The pins are numbered on the plugs if you look carefully where each wire enters the plug. Then remove the resistor. Access the wires by removing a slight bit of insulation or stick a fine straight pin into the wire to contact the inner conductor. Then simulate the unlocking of the door by using a 665 ohm resistor in a similar manner. That should disarm the system and allow you to start the engine successfully.
Then do not lock the car up by any other means than using the simple mechanical push bottons on the inside of the doors as you exit. The resistors don't have to be exactly these values but should be close to those ohm numbers. They are available at an electronics parts store.
You are thus simulating the locking/unlocking or either front door which is exactly what one does when he secures the vehicle and then returns when using the fob, the power door lock, or the door key lock.
Roland
PS Thanks for the offer to rate and nominate me. If this works, please do so.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi Roland,
Thank you for your response for which I am most grateful. I had the auto-electrician turn up today and I showed him your response. The auto-electrician seems convinced, after checking out the central locking system, that there is no 'opened' wires from either door going to the ECU. He is getting currents going from the white/dark green wires from the power door locking switch panel to the ECU. He reckons that the central locking system is functioning perfectly. He did take off the door panelling to access the green/white wire there at the power door panel and he says he reached pin 10 underneath the steering column etc.
I could probably get a fuller explanation by email if required as I'm lost in the jargon. But essentially, could it be a key code issue?
He seems to be convinced it has to do with either a chip in the key, the reader of this chip (the reader of the key chip), or the ECU itself. That it is not sending the correct 'code' back to the ECU to disarm.
Thanks again, Roland.
ANSWER: Hi Kris,
The presence of the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (that ring around the ignition key socket is tell-tale) gives us another possibility, because I wasn't aware you had that as well. An owner of an '01 van with the same issue as you ("Nick") sent me a follow-up on 3/03/08 where he described the solution to his problem: the wires that connect that 'antenna' ring to the near by module has cold solder joints and re-heating those joints solved his problem.
You need to remove the cover on the under side of the steering column (screws on the underside of the column). If that doesn't give you enough access then remove the entire lower panel to the left of the column that includes the park brake release. The SKIM module is held in place by 1 screw, has a plastic cover that snaps on, and then you can solder the connection of the antenna ring to electronics board.
I hope that this will work for you as well. Please let me know.
Roland
PS I would be pleased for your rating and nominations.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Yes, the "antenna ring" appears to be there. It is illuminated green? The illumination is still intact, by the way. It stays on when the door is open I think. When I remove the panel, I can see the module you are referring to. It is about the size of a credit card?
I haven't pulled it apart yet... I'm a little afraid to, to be honest. I don't want to snap or break the electronics board I can see inside when I pry the plastic apart a little. I do have soldering equipment, though.
I was wondering. If it is illuminated green (ie. the green ring light is still lit up, if there could be, in fact, still a problem with it) - Sorry for the follow up again!
AnswerI am not familiar with whether the illumination light should stay lit. I doubt that is relavant. Take your time in disassembly so as not to break anything. Nick said there was 1 screw but I can't be sure in your vehicle. Gray/red is powered full time by fuse #28 I believe, white/pink wire in the run/start position only.
Thanks for the kind remarks!
