QuestionQUESTION: Check engine light flashed on my 1999 Chryler 300m then car stalled with oil lamp illuminated. NOw it wont start after I put 2 qt of oil in. I must admit, it maybe a little past the fill line for max as I wasnt quite sure where to measure from...please help. I bought this lemon and have put over 2000 within a 3 week period. I have no more money and will dump it if it requires more cash...SOS
ANSWER: Hi Tea,
Try turning the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window in the gauge cluster to see the mileage reading change to show some 4 digits numbers preceded by a P. Let me know what those are as they tell what the engine computer believes is the reason for the 'no start'. Also, tell me what repairs have been done since you got the vehicle or in the past 3 weeks. How much over the full line is oil sitting, compared to the distance between low and full?
Roland
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QUESTION: OMG I love you...and I'm crying! I havent tried this but you sound knowledgeable. I will not be able to get to the car until this evening. Maybe you'll still be taking questions but I will definately respond.
The repairs were a new/rebuilt transmission and front brakes. The oil is slightly over the word Max but below the beginning of the "Do not over fill" warning.
ANSWER: Follow-up questions are always permitted, even when I am 'maxed out'. But after about 3 or 4 follow-up questions after the initial question you then have to be able to ask a new question when I am "available". But you shouldn't have a problem with a follow-up tonight after you get the P numbers, and I will then respond either tonight or tomorrow AM
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QUESTION: I'm at the car and the on off didn't work, on for five seconds or the set within 5 seconds
AnswerHi Tea.
It may be that the ignition key method is not available on the vehicle. Just to be sure, you did: on-0ff-on-off-on and leave on, completing that switching in a total time of less than 5 seconds? If not, then try again, and watch the odometer window. By 'on' I mean the key in the run position where it is when you are driving it.
If there is indeed no change from the normal mileage reading, then the direct way to get codes is with a plug-in code reader which you may be able to borrow from a friend who owns one. Otherwise they can be bought for under $100 dollars and would probably be less than towing it and paying a shop to do the readout. All you do is plug the reader into a socket that is under the dash next to the steering column and that will give the codes by pushing a button basically.
Take a look under the column to see if you find a 16-pin rectangular socket. It is black and has 2 rows of 8 socket holes each.
Also I assume that the battery is charged on the vehicle at least enough to crank the engine over.
The other approach, without a code readout, is to check whether the fuel pump is running. Have a helper turn the key to the run position while you stand outside and listen to hear a hum come from the fuel tank located under the trunk at the rear. It last for just a second and then cuts off, so don't be surprised to hear it do that, it is normal if it does that. Checking for spark is the other test, but that involves a bit of dismantling of one spark plug/spark coil which you probably do want to try yourself. Also look at the 6 larger fuses in the rectangular box on the driver side of the engine compartment to see if any of those are blown.
I believe though that the quickest and most accurate way to diagnose why the engine stopped is to plug in a code reader and get the fault code. That socket is under the dash to the left of the steering column. Check around at autoparts stores for the best deal on an OBD-II code reader or ask about borrowing one. I hope this proves helpful to you. Don't give up.
When you write back tell me which size engine (L) it says on the valve cover of the engine.
Roland
