QuestionQUESTION: The key will not turn to the "on" position and I do believe that I need to replace the Lock Cylinder. I have ordered the part, but have had mixed suggestions on how to remove/replace it. I've been informed that I need to remove the entire steering column, which requires special tools (i.e. steering puller kit, etc). I've read the other questions and am hoping to get some suggestions or even a step-by-step walk through of what is involved. I REALLY appreciate any feedback on this matter. Thank you in advance!
ANSWER: Hi T.J.,
The replacement is not too difficult (remove the under steering column panel, the one that includes the parking brake release handle and disconnect the cable from the handle; then remove the screws from the underside of the steering column in order to remove the underside panel of the steering column. Then you have access to the switch (which you remove with a torx #10) and then you can remove the cylinder by pressing in a a locking tab). The main issue though is that the cylinder has to be in the 'run' or 'on' position to remove the cylinder, so you will have to fiddle with the old one to get it to go in that position. There are about 3 pages in the manual which I should be able to copy off a CD and attach to an email to you that shows what I am describing.
Unfortunately my internet connection is very flakey so I would prefer to do that after you get the lock cylinder in the hopes that it won't be such a hassle to do that when you are ready. But let me know your email address by a 'private' option follow-up question where you tell me your email address which I don't otherwise see.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, and where you see the question about a nomination of me to be 'volunteer of the month' please consider a 'yes' response. I am in a close race for the recognition and would appreciate your help. Thank you
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QUESTION: Roland, thanks so much! So am I right in assuming I will not need the aforementioned kits for removing the entire steering column? My e-mail address is amdowell@gmail.com, please don't hesitate to contact me. Thanks again!
ANSWER: You are correct as it just requires access to the area immediately at the lock cylinder/ignition switch. I will attempt to copy the pages shortly.
Hi T.J.,
After checking the earliest manual that I have on CD, which is an '04, I find that the description of the procedure is less detailed than in my 'hard copy' '02 manual and is slightly different from that which I believe is applicable to your '01. Because the same procedure is shown in the '98 manual amd the '02 manual, the '01 should be identical to those.
If you would like I can xerox and postal mail the pages to you as I don't have a scanner to make a digital copy. But what I described is essentially what is involved. The tab that releases the cylinder is on the side of the column/cylinder bore and simply pushes in with the tip of a screwdriver. Let me know a postal mailing address if you want the pages.
Roland
PS Thanks for the rating/nomination
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QUESTION: This is kind of off-shoot of the question, but I bought a new lock cylinder, but the instructions say it won't work without the keys being "coded." Do you know about how much that costs and where the best place to take it to would be?
AnswerHi TJ,
That would apply if your vehicle has the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM) which would be evidenced by a metal ring (key sensor antenna) positioned externally around the lock cylinder and also that your existing (original) keys would have a similar bulging area at the grip of the key which corroborates the need. If that is not the case then I don't believe there will need to be any coding.
If they do, then you can code the new keys to be recognized at a dealer or at an automotive locksmith. The trick here is to get the van to the shop with the old cylinder, then changeout the cylinder and then have them program the new keys to match the SKIM. I don't know the cost, so do some comparison shopping. It is done with a diagnostic reader box and is merely a time involved in running through the procedure.
If you can realistically change out the old cylinder with the new cylinder in 50 seconds or less then you could avoid having to go to a shop. I can send you the procedure as an attachment to an email but I need to know your email address to do that. But it would be a challenge!
Once you have two coded keys that work with the new cylinder you can self-program additional keys yourself if you need them. But there is no way I can see to self-program a key into a new cylinder situation except with the readout box or very quick and agile fingers.
Roland
PS Your are entitled to give me another nomination is you so-choose. Thank you
