Chrysler Repair: 2000 Sebring Convertible - Trunk release, fuse box, body control module


Question
QUESTION: I have a 2000 Sebring Convertible JXi. When I bought the car the key doesn't work to open the trunk so I've had to use the release button inside. The trunk latch was rusted so it took 2 people to open it (one to repeatedly hit the button while the other pulled up on the trunk). One night I was taking something out of the trunk and was trying to loosen up the rusted latch and when I shut it it locked closed and wouldn't pop open. I had someone repeatedly pushing the button and it would intermittently stop popping the latch. I removed and replaced the latch with one from a junk yard and it worked great... 3 times. Now when I hit the release inside I hear a clicking under the dash but the trunk doesn't pop. I looked through all the documentation I could find and don't see a fuse related to it and everything else seems to be on and working in the car. Is there a fuse or relay that may have gone back from pushing it so much? Please help. I can't get into my trunk at all now. Thanks!

ANSWER: Hi Ryan,
There is a decklid release relay under the dash to the right of the steering column, and that is what you hear clicking. It is powered by circuit breaker no. 1 in the fuse box behind the left end cap of the dash. The body control module energizes the relay by grounding the actuation coil, but also there is evidentally a switch that you can throw to disable the body controller from doing that, as a security measure. It may be part of the decklid release switch or it could be hidden some where else you might need to check the owner manual for that disable switch location. Because the relay clicks, that disable function is not in play now.
Because the relay is clicking it must mean that the circuit breaker is OK, and the relay isn't diabled,  but you can't be sure that the current output from the relay is going to the trunk lid to the solenoid on the latch that opens the latch. The light green/black wire at pin 2 of the relay socket is the wire that goes to the solenoid. You could try jumping 12V directly to that wire so as to by-pass the relay and see if that releases the solenoid. If not, then the wire is not patent to the solenoid or the solenoid has failed/jammed.  
I wonder if you might get into the trunk from behind the rear seat, though the space may be too tight.
Sorry for the delay but I just found your question in the pool to which it had been referred by Kevin.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, and where you see the question about a nomination for me to be 'volunteer of the month' consider a 'yes' response.
Thank you
Roland

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QUESTION: Roland,

You wouldn't happen to have a Part number on that relay would you? I called my local auto parts store and they have no listing when searching. I releases the clip on the relay but can't get the relay itself out,

Thanks!

ANSWER: Hi Ryan,
Sorry to say I don't have a part number. Probably a dealer item because it is not a high demand item. Is it still clicking? If so, then you might want to verify that it is putting out 12V when it clicks. If not then you could remove it and open it up and file the points lightly to re-establish electrical contacts. Also check that circuit breaker 1 is set to provide power to the relay and thus the solenoid in the trunk.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer. Thank you

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I called and it is a dealer item ($30.. So I'll probably hit the junk yard this weekend). I tried to jump 12v directly to the green/black wire and nothing. I also put a test light to that wire and hit the button while trying each wire in the harness and got nothing. I know the circuit breaker is ok because when I removed it the relay stopped clicking. Do I need to ground a wire in the harness as well as jumping 12v to the green/black wire? I know I have the right harness because the relay isn't clicking, but it's a pain to get to the relay. It's still mounted, I only removed the harness. I'm hoping I can get a relay at the junkyard (I need a few other items too). I'm hoping just swapping the relay works or else I'm going to have to pop the trunk with a screwdriver..

Answer
Hi Ryan,
In my first response I noted:
'The light green/black wire at pin 2 of the relay socket is the wire that goes to the solenoid. You could try jumping 12V directly to that wire so as to by-pass the relay and see if that releases the solenoid. If not, then the wire is not patent to the solenoid or the solenoid has failed/jammed.  
I wonder if you might get into the trunk from behind the rear seat, though the space may be too tight.'
So if you did that jump to the light green/black and the solenoid in the trunk didn't respond, then I would shift focus to the wire to the trunk solenoid and if that isn't broken somewhere along the path along the left side of the body then it pretty much means getting into the trunk. The solenoid also needs to be grounded to operate, but those ground wires are inside the trunk so you can't check those until you get the lid open. I guess there no mechanical release for the latch?
Roland
PS Please rate my answer, and if you will give me another nomination for volunteer of the month that would be appreciated.