Chrysler Repair: Chrysler Concorde 2000 2.7 stalling, crankshaft sensor, exhaust gas recirculation valve


Question
I have a 2.7 Chrysler Concorde (2000). It runs on petrol and LPG. Recently, the car started to stall at every stop. It starts perfectly again, but stalls on the next stop. We have run diagnostics, were given errors for the 3rd and 4th injectors (P0203, P0204) and a faulty crankshaft sensor. Replaced the crankshaft sensor and all 6 injectors, the problem persists. Current diagnostics show errors P0201 through to P0206 and that a battery has been disconnected in the last 50 engine starts. The car runs perfectly in idle (Parked), revs nicely, etc. As soon as it is driven - stalls and dies at any stop. I am suspecting the wiring, as it is old, and trying to get the wiring diagram for the crankshaft sensor (the wire colors of the 3 wires that go into the sensor, and where do they come to the ECU), as it doesn't seem reliable. Maybe the problem is somewhere else and you could advise me.
Thank you in advance.

Answer
Hi Arnie,
When you say is stalls at every stop, does that also include if you didn't drive faster than 70km/hr so that the torque converter does not lock up? Or does it stall only after you have slowed do a stop after going more than 80 km/hr? If the torque converter lockup clutch is brought into service it has to unlock as you slow down or it will stall the engine just like if you had a clutch and manual transmission but didn't step on the clutch when you stopped.
Another possibility is that the exhaust gas recirculation valve is not closing tightly to a dead stop and so the mixture is being leaned out to much to sustain an idle. It is a bit involved to remove it so let us do that second after considering the torque converter. Do check the fluid level in the trans based upon the dipstick and only add ATF +4 type fluid if needed.
The crank position sensor wires are orange (8V) to pin 44, black/light blue (sensor ground) to pin 43, and gray/black to pin 32. You can test the sensor by measuring the voltage between pin 32 and 43 with key in the 'run' position and you turn the crankshaft by hand with a wrench and socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. You should not that the voltage oscillates between 5 and 0.3V several times per revolution of the crankshaft. Check for that when it has stalled by having prepositioned pins in the 2 wires so you can check for the signal voltage oscillation promptly.
The injectors have a 12V supply from fuse S which should be there when you are turning over the engine, and each injector has a separate 'drive' wire to time the injection to the proper cylinder.
Let me know what you learn.
Roland
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