QuestionQUESTION: I am trying to help a friend that has a 1993 Dodge Caravan with a 3.3 V-6 engine. It had sat for almost a year needing an alternator. I replaced the alternator then tried starting the engine. It didn't want to start right off, but did eventually, an would die when left to idle. We put 5 gallons of fresh gas in the tank and took it for a drive and it seemed that the fresh gas had done the trick.
He was then going to drive it home and it didn't go 50 ft. before it died and has run since. The check engine light came on and we checked to see what it showed with the on-off-on-off-on proceedure. It shows three flashes then a pause, then five flashes then a pause, then five flashes. Can you help me with this problem?
ANSWER: Hi Tim,
I suspect that the three flashes was really one flash followed by two flashes, as there has to be an even number of flash counts, the the last pair are always 5 of each. The 12 means that the electrical supply to the system as seen by the engine control module has been disconnected recently. That code may have been there before you got it to run for the first time recently or you may have disconnected the battery and then connected it, which will also cause a 12 code.
If the battery is well-charged and the engine won't start, and there are no other codes than 12 and 55 (55 means 'end of readout' and corroborates that the computer did do the readout) then I would start by checking the exhaust gas recirculation valve to see if it might be stuck slightly ajar which would lean out the minsture too much to sustain an idle. That valve is located under the throttle body on the side facing the rear of the van. It is mounted in a small pipe which branches off the rear exhuast manifold. It has a round vacuum operated solenoid on it top, a valve body mounted into the small pipe, and in between the two is a flange inside of which is a rod with a circumferential slot. Put the tip of a screwdriver in the slot and move the rod back and forth against spring-action in one direction that attempts to close the valve. The internal spring should cause the valve to close to a dead stop. If it seems sticky, then spray some WD-40 on the rod where it enters the valve body and move the rod back and forth to free-up the action. Then try to start the engine and see if it will catch and idle.
Roland
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QUESTION: I sprayed WD-40 on the rod and moved the rod back and forth as suggested. I then tried to start the engine to no avail. Something told me to check for pressure in the gas line, so I removed the cap and used a srewdriver to open the valve in the gas line and there was no gas pressure in the line. So now I'm wondering if the fuel pump is the culprit. What else can I check for?
AnswerHi Tim,
Do you hear the fuel pump humm inside the gas tank for about 1 second when you turn the key to the run position? That would be expected if the pump is good. Then when you start cranking it over the fuel pump should close again while you are cranking. Check that there is 12v on the red/white wire at the fuel pump relay at all times, and check that there is 12v on the dark green/black wire of the relay when cranking it over. That relay is the second from the front on the left inner fender.
Roland
